Drywall Installation: Complete Guide

Overview

• Typical Duration: 2-3 weeks
• DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆ (3/5 hanging, 4/5 finishing)
• Typical Cost: $8,000-$15,000 (2,000 sq ft house)
• When to Hire: Many DIY hanging, hire finishing
• Required Inspection: Generally no separate inspection

Drywall transforms your construction site into recognizable rooms. This is where the house starts feeling like a home. The work divides into two distinct skills: hanging (easier) and finishing (harder).

Most owner-builders can successfully hang drywall. Finishing to professional level is much harder and takes practice. Many owner-builders hang their own drywall but hire pros for taping and finishing - this saves 50-60% of labor costs while getting professional results.

When This Phase Happens

Drywall installs after insulation inspection passes.

Must be complete first:

• Insulation complete and inspected
• All rough-in trades complete
• HVAC system operational (for climate control during finishing)
• Windows and doors installed

What comes after:

• Interior trim
• Painting
• Flooring

Should You DIY This Phase?

DIY Hanging If:

• Have 2-3 strong helpers (sheets weigh 50-100 lbs)
• Comfortable with physical work
• Can rent or buy drywall lift (makes ceiling work possible)
• Have time (2-3x longer than pros)
• Want to save $3,000-$5,000 in labor

Hire Finishing If:

• Want professional smooth walls (level 4 or 5 finish)
• Don't want to practice finishing on your walls
• Limited time (finishing takes weeks to learn)
• Can't tolerate dust from sanding

My recommendation: DIY hanging if you have helpers, hire finishing unless you have drywall experience. Hanging is straightforward with proper tools. Finishing takes skill and practice.

I've seen many owner-builders hang their own drywall perfectly, then hire finishers for $4,000-$6,000 to tape and finish - saving half the total labor cost while getting professional results.

Materials Needed

Drywall Sheets (2,000 sq ft house)

Fasteners

Finishing Materials

Tools Required

For Hanging:

• Drywall lift (rent $50-$80/day) - essential for ceilings
• Screw gun with depth setter
• Utility knife and blades (lots of blades)
• T-square (4-foot)
• Rasp or sanding block
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Sawhorses

For Finishing:

• 6", 10", 12" taping knives
• Mud pan
• Corner trowel
• Sanding pole with head
• Wet sponge sanding system (reduces dust)
• Shop vacuum with fine filter
• Work lights
• Stilts (optional, for pros)

Step-by-Step Process

Days 1-4: Hanging Ceilings

Always hang ceilings first (walls support ceiling edges).

Ceiling preparation:

1. Mark joist locations on walls
2. Snap chalk lines for sheet layout
3. Plan layout to minimize seams
4. Identify lighting and fixture locations

Hanging sequence:

1. Load sheet onto drywall lift
2. Position perpendicular to joists
3. Lift into position
4. Screw off starting at center, working toward edges
5. Screws 12" apart on joists
6. Screws 3/8" from edges
7. Slightly dimple screws (not breaking paper)
8. Butt joints must fall on joist centers

Cutting drywall:

1. Measure and mark
2. Use T-square to guide knife
3. Score face paper deeply
4. Snap back to break gypsum core
5. Cut back paper
6. Smooth edges with rasp

Days 5-8: Hanging Walls

Wall hanging tips:

• Stand sheets vertically on tall walls (less seams)
• Horizontal on short walls (8-foot walls)
• Stagger seams between rows
• Butt seams must fall on stud centers

Hanging sequence:

1. Start with upper row (if horizontal)
2. Tight to ceiling (walls support ceiling edges)
3. Screw every 16" on studs
4. Lower row butts to upper row
5. Lift lower row snug (use foot lever or pry bar)
6. Cut openings for outlets, switches, fixtures

Cutting openings:

Electrical boxes method 1 (mark and cut):

1. Measure from reference points
2. Mark box location on drywall
3. Cut with drywall saw before hanging

Method 2 (easier - rout after hanging):

1. Hang sheet over box
2. Use router with drywall bit
3. Follow box edges

Outside corners:

1. Overlap one sheet past corner
2. Butt second sheet to it
3. Apply metal corner bead later

Inside corners:

1. Butt sheets into corner
2. Don't worry about gaps (tape covers)

Days 9-12: First Coat (Taping)

This is where difficulty increases. Taping is the foundation of a good finish.

Interior corners (tape first):

1. Apply bed coat of mud in corner
2. Fold paper tape in half
3. Press into corner with corner trowel
4. Smooth with trowel, removing excess
5. Let dry 24 hours

Flat seams:

1. Apply bed coat over seam (6" knife)
2. Center paper tape over seam
3. Embed tape with knife, removing excess
4. Feather edges smooth
5. Apply thin coat over screws
6. Let dry 24 hours

Outside corners (bead first):

1. Apply corner bead to all outside corners
2. Fasten with screws or crimp tool
3. Apply mud over bead
4. Feather 6" onto wall each side
5. Let dry 24 hours

Days 13-16: Second Coat

This coat widens the seams and covers imperfections from first coat.

1. Lightly sand any ridges or bumps from first coat
2. Apply wider coat with 10" knife
3. Feather 10-12" wide
4. Fill any voids or depressions
5. Second coat over screws
6. Blend into surrounding surface
7. Let dry 24 hours

Common issues at this stage:

• Ridges at knife edges (too much pressure)
• Air bubbles (poke and recoat)
• Tape showing through (need more mud)
• Uneven feathering (practice knife angle)

Days 17-20: Third Coat and Sanding

Final coat creates smooth, paintable surface.

1. Lightly sand second coat
2. Apply final coat with 12" knife
3. Feather 14-16" wide
4. Skim coat only (very thin)
5. Blend into wall surface
6. Let dry 48 hours

Sanding (dustiest part):

1. Set up dust containment (plastic sheeting)
2. Wear respirator (required - drywall dust is harmful)
3. Use sanding pole with 120-grit screen
4. Sand lightly - don't remove too much
5. Shine work light across wall (shows imperfections)
6. Touch up low spots with mud
7. Re-sand after touch-ups dry

Wet sponge method (less dust):

1. Use damp sponge instead of sandpaper
2. Wipe in circular motions
3. Rinse sponge frequently
4. Creates smoother finish with less dust
5. Takes practice to avoid over-wetting

Days 21-23: Prime Coat

Primer is essential before painting:

1. Vacuum all dust
2. Wipe walls with damp cloth
3. Apply drywall primer (PVA primer)
4. Primer seals porous drywall surface
5. Creates uniform base for paint
6. Reveals any remaining imperfections

Drywall Finish Levels

Level 1: Tape only - not suitable for living areas Level 2: Tape and bed coat - garage, attic Level 3: Tape and two coats - light texture, matte paint Level 4: Tape and three coats - smooth walls, flat or eggshell paint (standard for homes) Level 5: Level 4 plus skim coat - critical lighting, glossy paint

Most homes use Level 4 finish. Level 5 for special areas like kitchens, baths with critical lighting.

Code Requirements

Drywall code requirements (IRC):

• IRC R302.6 - Dwelling/garage separation: 1/2" drywall minimum, Type X for fire rating

• IRC R302.3 - Townhouse separation: Fire-rated assemblies required between units

• IRC R314.3 - Smoke alarms: Can mount after drywall installation

• IRC R806.5 - Attic access: Drywall or finish around attic access required

Most code requirements relate to fire separation, not drywall finish quality.

Subcontractor Considerations

Typical pricing:

• Hanging only: $0.50-$1.00 per sq ft
• Finishing only: $0.75-$1.50 per sq ft
• Hang and finish: $1.50-$2.50 per sq ft
• Texture: Add $0.30-$0.60 per sq ft

Example costs (2,000 sq ft living space = ~6,000 sq ft drywall surface):

• Hanging only: $3,000-$6,000
• Finishing only: $4,500-$9,000
• Complete hang and finish: $9,000-$15,000

Timeline:

• Hanging: 2-4 days
• Finishing: 7-14 days (drying time between coats)
• Total: 10-18 days

What to look for:

• Experience with residential finish level 4+
• References with photos of work
• Includes all materials in quote
• Specifies finish level in contract
• Will prime or provide ready-to-paint surface
• Cleanup included

Common Mistakes

1. Over-Driving Screws

Why it's a problem: Broken paper = no holding power. Screws pop later. How to avoid: Use depth-setting screw gun. Screws should dimple slightly, not break through. Cost if you don't: Screw pops, nail pops, must repair after painting.

2. Butt Joints Not on Studs

Why it's a problem: Unsupported edges crack and sag. How to avoid: Plan layout so all joints fall on framing. Add blocking if needed. Cost if you don't: Sagging, cracking seams, must remove and re-hang.

3. Not Staggering Seams

Why it's a problem: Creates long continuous seam that's visible and weak. How to avoid: Stagger seams like bricks - no four corners meeting. Cost if you don't: Visible seams, potential cracking.

4. Gaps at Ceiling

Why it's a problem: Visible gap, difficult to finish. How to avoid: Hold wall sheets tight to ceiling. Use foot lever to lift lower sheets snug. Cost if you don't: Poor appearance, extra mud required.

5. Too Much Mud

Why it's a problem: Creates ridges, takes longer to dry, more sanding required. How to avoid: Apply thin coats. Multiple thin coats better than one thick coat. Cost if you don't: Excessive sanding, wavy walls.

6. Not Letting Coats Dry

Why it's a problem: Mud doesn't shrink properly, cracks develop, sanding is messy. How to avoid: Wait 24 hours between coats minimum. 48 hours for thick coats. Cost if you don't: Cracking, poor finish, must redo.

7. Inadequate Sanding

Why it's a problem: Visible ridges, rough texture, paint doesn't look good. How to avoid: Sand thoroughly between coats. Use work light to reveal imperfections. Cost if you don't: Poor paint finish, visible imperfections.

8. No Primer

Why it's a problem: Paint doesn't adhere evenly, can't see imperfections, wastes paint. How to avoid: Always prime new drywall before painting. Use PVA drywall primer. Cost if you don't: Poor paint finish, more paint required.

9. Working in Wrong Conditions

Why it's a problem: Mud doesn't dry properly in cold or humid conditions. How to avoid: Maintain 55-70°F temperature, low humidity. Run HVAC or heat. Cost if you don't: Extended drying times, poor bond, potential mold.

10. Poor Dust Control

Why it's a problem: Drywall dust everywhere, in HVAC system, health hazard. How to avoid: Seal off work area, wear respirator, use HEPA vacuum, wet sanding. Cost if you don't: Health issues, cleaning costs, HVAC contamination.

Quality Checkpoints

Before painting, verify:

• [ ] All sheets secured properly (screws 12"-16" apart)
• [ ] No unsupported edges (all joints on framing)
• [ ] All screw heads covered with mud
• [ ] All corner beads installed and covered
• [ ] Three coats applied and sanded (Level 4 finish)
• [ ] No visible tape edges
• [ ] No ridges or high spots (test with straight edge)
• [ ] Smooth to touch (no rough areas)
• [ ] Corners are crisp and straight
• [ ] All electrical and fixture cutouts exact
• [ ] Primed and ready for paint
• [ ] Work area cleaned (dust removed)

Budget Breakdown

Example for 2,000 sq ft house (~6,000 sq ft drywall surface):

Timeline Tips

Scheduling:

• Wait for insulation inspection
• Maintain climate control during finishing (55-70°F)
• Allow 24-48 hours between coats
• Don't rush drying time
• Schedule during dry season if possible

Seasonal considerations:

• Faster drying in warm, dry weather
• Slower in cold or humid conditions
• May need supplemental heat in winter

What Comes Next

After drywall complete and primed:

1. Interior trim installation
2. Painting
3. Flooring installation

Link to: Interior Trim Phase

Related Resources

• Drywall Finishing Techniques
• Material Calculator

Need Drywall Help?

Drywall finishing takes practice to master. Many owner-builders hang their own drywall but hire professional finishers for a perfect result.