Electrical Rough-In: Complete Guide

Overview

• Typical Duration: 1-2 weeks
• DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5)
• Typical Cost: $8,000-$18,000 (2,000 sq ft house)
• When to Hire: Many owner-builders DIY with code study
• Required Inspection: Yes - critical safety inspection

Electrical rough-in installs all wiring, boxes, and panels before walls close. This is highly code-regulated for safety reasons. Electrical fires cause billions in damage annually - proper installation prevents tragedy.

Many owner-builders successfully wire their homes, saving $4,000-$8,000 in labor. It requires careful planning, code knowledge, and attention to detail, but the work itself is straightforward.

When This Phase Happens

Electrical rough-in happens after house is weathertight.

Must be complete first:

• Roof complete and weathertight
• Windows and doors installed
• Framing complete and inspected

Can happen in parallel:

• Plumbing rough-in
• HVAC rough-in

What comes after:

• Rough-in inspection (all trades)
• Insulation
• Drywall

Should You DIY This Phase?

DIY If:

• Comfortable learning NEC and IRC requirements
• Can plan circuits and loads properly
• Have time to study code (IRC E3900 series)
• Willing to work methodically and safely
• Local code allows owner-builder electrical work
• Can handle physical work (drilling, pulling wire)

Hire Out If:

• Uncomfortable with electrical concepts
• Complex smart home or automation
• Can't dedicate time to learning code
• Want licensed electrician liability protection
• Local code requires licensed electrician

My recommendation: DIY if you're willing to study. Electrical rough-in is very DIY-able with proper planning. The code seems complex but follows logical safety patterns.

Buy a code book, watch training videos, and work methodically. Most owner-builders who fail electrical inspection do so from carelessness, not lack of ability.

Materials Needed

Service and Panels (200-amp service)

Wiring (2,000 sq ft home)

Boxes and Devices

Tools Required

Essential:

• Wire strippers
• Lineman's pliers
• Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
• Voltage tester (non-contact)
• Tape measure
• Drill with hole saw bits (3/4", 1", 1-1/4")
• Cable stapler or hammer
• Utility knife
• Flashlight/headlamp

Nice to have:

• Wire pulling fish tape
• Cable ripper
• Reciprocating saw
• Stud finder
• Label maker

Code-required for testing:

• Multimeter
• GFCI tester
• Circuit tracer

Step-by-Step Process

Days 1-2: Planning and Load Calculation

Load calculation (determines panel size):

• Calculate total square footage (VA = sq ft × 3)
• Add appliance loads (range, dryer, HVAC, water heater)
• Add required circuits (kitchen, laundry, bathroom)
• Size panel: 2,000 sq ft home typically needs 150-200 amp service

Circuit planning:

• General lighting: 15A circuits, maximum 8-12 fixtures each
• Receptacles: 20A circuits, one per room minimum (bedrooms), two in kitchen
• Kitchen countertop: Two 20A circuits (GFCI required)
• Bathroom: One 20A circuit per bathroom (GFCI required)
• Laundry: One 20A circuit (GFCI required in some jurisdictions)
• Garage: One 20A circuit minimum (GFCI required)
• Dedicated circuits: Range (40-50A), dryer (30A), HVAC, water heater, dishwasher, disposal

Create circuit schedule:

• List every circuit with description
• Note wire size and breaker amperage
• Identify GFCI and AFCI requirements
• Mark which circuits go to which rooms

Days 3-5: Box Installation

Box placement rules:

• Wall receptacles: 12-18" above finish floor (standard 16")
• Kitchen counter: 44" above floor (4" above counter)
• Bathroom: 44" above floor
• Switches: 48" above floor
• Required locations:
  • Every wall space 2 feet or wider
  • Maximum 12 feet between receptacles
  • Within 6 feet of doorways
  • Both sides of fireplaces
  • All countertop spaces over 12" wide

Box installation:

1. Mark all box locations on studs
2. Install boxes at consistent heights (use laser level)
3. Boxes must be flush with finish drywall (account for drywall thickness)
4. Secure boxes firmly to studs (nails or screws)
5. Leave 6-8" of wire extending from box

Ceiling box installation:

• Install between joists with adjustable bar
• Mark fan-rated boxes (required for ceiling fans)
• Install at correct drop for finish ceiling
• Consider heavy fixture bracing

Days 6-10: Running Wire

General wiring practices:

• Run wire before installing insulation
• Drill holes in center of studs (minimum 1-1/4" from edge)
• Use nail plates where wire is within 1-1/4" of edge
• Support wire every 4-1/2 feet and within 12" of boxes
• Don't kink or damage wire jacket
• Leave 6-8" extra wire at each box

Running technique:

1. Start at panel, run to first box
2. Continue to next box on same circuit
3. Staple within 12" of boxes and every 4-1/2 feet
4. Label wires at panel (circuit number or location)
5. Use cable clamps at all box entries

Specific circuit wiring:

Lighting circuits (14/2 wire, 15A breakers):

• Wire lights and switches on same circuit
• Use 14/3 for 3-way switches
• Maximum 8-12 lights per circuit

Receptacle circuits (12/2 wire, 20A breakers):

• Run separate circuit per room (bedrooms)
• Kitchen requires two 20A small appliance circuits
• Bathroom requires dedicated 20A circuit
• Wire receptacles in sequence (don't home-run each one)

240V circuits:

• Electric range: 6/3 or 8/3 wire, 40-50A breaker
• Electric dryer: 10/3 wire, 30A breaker
• HVAC: Size per unit specifications
• Water heater: 10/2 wire, 30A breaker typical

Days 11-12: Special Circuits

GFCI requirements (ground fault protection):

• All kitchen countertop receptacles
• All bathroom receptacles
• All garage receptacles
• All outdoor receptacles
• All crawl space receptacles
• All unfinished basement receptacles
• Laundry room (in some jurisdictions)

AFCI requirements (arc fault protection):

• All bedroom receptacles and lights
• Family rooms, dining rooms (varies by code year)
• Living rooms (varies by code year)
• Check IRC E4002.16 for your code year

Smoke detector wiring:

• Hardwired with battery backup
• Interconnected (one sounds, all sound)
• One in each bedroom
• One outside each sleeping area
• One per floor minimum
• Use 14/3 wire for interconnection

Outdoor circuits:

• GFCI protected (required)
• Use weatherproof boxes and covers
• Seal all penetrations through walls
• Install in-use covers if receptacles used while covered

Days 13-14: Panel and Final Connections

Panel installation:

1. Mount panel at accessible location (code requires 30" clearance in front)
2. Run main feed from meter to panel (power company usually does this)
3. Install ground rod (two required, 6 feet apart minimum)
4. Run ground wire from panel to ground rods (copper #6 minimum)
5. Bond ground and neutral bus in main panel only

Circuit connections at panel:

1. Strip cable sheath back 1/4" minimum
2. Secure cable to panel with proper clamps
3. Connect ground to ground bus
4. Connect neutral to neutral bus
5. Connect hot wire(s) to breaker
6. Install breaker in panel
7. Label breaker clearly (by room and purpose)

Labeling:

• Label every circuit at panel (specific descriptions: "Master BR Receptacles", not "BR")
• Label inside each box (circuit number)
• Label special circuits (GFCI, AFCI)
• Create panel schedule on inside of panel door

Day 15: Testing and Inspection Prep

Pre-inspection testing:

• Verify all boxes securely mounted
• Verify all cables properly stapled
• Verify nail plates installed where required
• Check for damaged wire insulation
• Verify proper wire sizes for circuits
• Check that all cables labeled at panel
• Verify GFCI and AFCI circuits correct

Testing after power on (typically after inspection):

• Test all circuits with multimeter (correct voltage)
• Test all GFCI outlets (test button)
• Test all AFCI breakers (test button)
• Verify correct hot/neutral/ground at all receptacles

Code Requirements

Key IRC and NEC electrical requirements:

• IRC E3703.1 - Receptacle spacing: Maximum 12 feet apart, every wall space 2 feet or wider

• IRC E3901.6 - GFCI protection: Required in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors, crawlspaces, unfinished basements

• IRC E3902.16 - AFCI protection: Required in bedrooms and other habitable rooms per code year

• IRC E3906.12 - Smoke alarms: Hardwired, interconnected, one per bedroom, one per floor, one outside sleeping areas

• NEC 334.30 - Cable support: Within 12" of boxes, every 4-1/2 feet along run

• NEC 300.4 - Protection from damage: Nail plates required within 1-1/4" of framing edge

• NEC 314.17 - Box installation: Boxes must be flush with finished wall surface

• NEC 210.52 - Receptacle outlets required: Specific spacing and location requirements by room type

Subcontractor Considerations

If hiring electricians:

Typical pricing:

• Complete rough-in: $3,500-$7,000 for 2,000 sq ft
• Per outlet/switch: $75-$150 installed
• Per circuit: $150-$300 from panel to first device
• Panel upgrade: $1,200-$2,500 for 200-amp service

Timeline: 3-7 days for complete rough-in

What to look for:

• Licensed electrician (required in most jurisdictions)
• Experience with residential new construction
• Will handle permit and inspection
• Provides warranty on work
• Carries proper insurance

Common Mistakes

1. Wrong Wire Size for Circuit

Why it's a problem: Fire hazard, code violation, failed inspection. How to avoid: 14-gauge for 15A circuits, 12-gauge for 20A circuits, larger for 240V. Never downsize. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$5,000 to rewire circuits.

2. Missing GFCI or AFCI Protection

Why it's a problem: Safety hazard, code violation, fails inspection. How to avoid: Study current code requirements. When in doubt, add protection. Cost if you don't: $200-$500 per location to retrofit.

3. Improper Box Fill

Why it's a problem: Code violation, fire hazard, fails inspection. How to avoid: Follow box fill calculations (NEC 314.16). Generally limit to 6-8 wires per single box. Cost if you don't: Replace with larger boxes, rewire.

4. No Nail Plates

Why it's a problem: Drywall screws puncture wires, causing shorts and fires. How to avoid: Install nail plates wherever wire passes within 1-1/4" of framing edge. Cost if you don't: Potential fire, expensive repairs.

5. Inadequate Support

Why it's a problem: Sagging cables, code violation, fails inspection. How to avoid: Staple within 12" of boxes and every 4-1/2 feet along run. Cost if you don't: Failed inspection, must expose and add staples.

6. Wrong Box Depth

Why it's a problem: Boxes stick out past drywall or sink too deep. Devices don't mount properly. How to avoid: Account for 1/2" or 5/8" drywall thickness when setting boxes. Cost if you don't: $50-$150 per box to reset or add box extenders.

7. Insufficient Circuits

Why it's a problem: Tripped breakers, can't use multiple appliances, safety issues. How to avoid: Install more circuits than minimum. Each bedroom should have dedicated circuit. Cost if you don't: $500-$1,500 per circuit to add later.

8. Poor Panel Organization

Why it's a problem: Difficult troubleshooting, unsafe, code violations. How to avoid: Label everything clearly. Organize circuits logically. Leave room for future circuits. Cost if you don't: Confusion, safety issues during troubleshooting.

9. Splicing in Walls

Why it's a problem: Fire hazard, code violation, failed inspection. How to avoid: All splices must be in accessible junction boxes. Plan wire runs to avoid splices. Cost if you don't: Cut walls to install boxes, repair walls.

10. Missing Smoke Detector Interconnection

Why it's a problem: Code violation, safety issue, fails inspection. How to avoid: Run 14/3 between all smoke detectors. Interconnect per manufacturer instructions. Cost if you don't: $500-$1,500 to fish wires after drywall.

Quality Checkpoints

Before rough-in inspection, verify:

• [ ] All boxes installed at correct heights
• [ ] All boxes flush with future wall surface
• [ ] All wires properly secured (12" from boxes, 4-1/2' along run)
• [ ] Nail plates installed where required
• [ ] All circuits properly sized (wire gauge matches breaker)
• [ ] GFCI circuits identified and correct
• [ ] AFCI circuits identified and correct
• [ ] Smoke detectors interconnected
• [ ] All splices in accessible boxes
• [ ] No damaged wire insulation
• [ ] Proper box fill (not overcrowded)
• [ ] All circuits labeled at panel
• [ ] Ground rods installed and connected
• [ ] Panel grounding/bonding correct
• [ ] Permit posted on site
• [ ] All required circuits installed

Budget Breakdown

Example for 2,000 sq ft home:

Timeline Tips

Scheduling:

• Can work simultaneously with plumbing and HVAC
• Schedule combined rough-in inspection for all trades
• Allow time for learning if first time

What Comes Next

After electrical rough-in inspection passes:

1. Complete all rough-in trades
2. Combined rough-in inspection
3. Insulation installation
4. Drywall installation

Link to: HVAC Installation Phase

Related Resources

• Electrical Rough-In Inspection Guide
• Load Calculation Guide
• Circuit Planning Worksheet

Need Electrical Help?

Electrical work requires code knowledge but is very DIY-able. If you're unsure about load calculations or circuit requirements, a consultation ensures safety and code compliance.