Flooring Installation: Complete Guide

Overview

• Typical Duration: 1-3 weeks (varies by type)
• DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆ (3/5, varies by material)
• Typical Cost: $8,000-$25,000 (2,000 sq ft house, highly variable)
• When to Hire: Tile and hardwood refinishing often hired; vinyl and laminate very DIY-able
• Required Inspection: No

Flooring dramatically affects both the appearance and value of your home. Material choices range from $2-$15+ per square foot, and installation difficulty varies significantly. This is one area where your choices directly impact both budget and DIY-ability.

Many owner-builders successfully install their own flooring, saving $3,000-$8,000 in labor costs depending on material choices.

When This Phase Happens

Flooring typically installs after trim, though sequence can vary.

Must be complete first:

• Drywall complete
• HVAC operational (climate control critical)
• Subfloor solid and level

Trim-first method (most common):

• Install trim first
• Install flooring second
• Flooring slides under baseboard
• Easier trim installation, harder flooring cuts

Trim-last method:

• Install flooring first
• Install trim over flooring
• Covers expansion gaps
• Easier flooring installation, more complicated trim

What comes after:

• Kitchen and bath completion
• Final painting
• Final fixtures

Flooring Types Comparison

1. Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) - Best DIY Option

Cost: $3-$7 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐☆☆☆ (2/5) Lifespan: 15-25 years Pros: Waterproof, durable, realistic wood look, easy click-install, forgiving Cons: Not real wood, can dent from heavy furniture Best for: Owner-builders, kitchens, bathrooms, busy families

2. Laminate Flooring

Cost: $2-$5 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐☆☆☆ (2/5) Lifespan: 15-25 years Pros: Affordable, easy DIY, realistic wood look, durable Cons: Not waterproof, sounds hollow, can't be refinished Best for: Budget-conscious, DIY installation, bedrooms, living areas

3. Engineered Hardwood

Cost: $6-$12 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆ (3/5) Lifespan: 25-40 years Pros: Real wood, can refinish 1-2 times, stable in humidity, premium look Cons: More expensive, water-sensitive, installation precision required Best for: Living areas, upgrades over laminate, moderate humidity areas

4. Solid Hardwood

Cost: $8-$15 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5) Lifespan: 50-100+ years Pros: Real wood, multiple refinishes, highest value, beautiful patina Cons: Expensive, humidity sensitive, professional installation recommended, not for basements Best for: High-end homes, main living areas, long-term investment

5. Ceramic/Porcelain Tile

Cost: $5-$15 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5) Lifespan: 50+ years with proper installation Pros: Waterproof, durable, unlimited designs, adds value Cons: Cold, hard, difficult DIY, heavy, requires perfectly level subfloor Best for: Bathrooms, kitchens, entryways, high-end look

6. Carpet

Cost: $3-$8 per sq ft installed DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5) Lifespan: 10-15 years Pros: Soft, warm, sound dampening, comfortable Cons: Stains, wears, harbors allergens, requires regular cleaning Best for: Bedrooms, living rooms with young children

This guide focuses on LVP installation (most popular DIY choice). Concepts apply broadly with material-specific adjustments.

Materials Needed (LVP Installation - 2,000 sq ft)

Tools Required

Essential:

• Vinyl/laminate cutter or table saw
• Pull bar and tapping block
• Spacers (1/4" to 3/8")
• Tape measure
• Speed square
• Utility knife
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar

Nice to have:

• Miter saw (for clean cuts)
• Jigsaw (for intricate cuts)
• Oscillating multi-tool (undercut trim)
• Flooring roller (for glue-down)
• Knee pads (essential for comfort)

Step-by-Step Process (LVP Click-Lock)

Days 1-2: Subfloor Preparation

Critical step - don't skip:

1. Remove all existing flooring and debris
2. Repair damaged subfloor
3. Level subfloor:
   • High spots: Sand or grind down
   • Low spots: Fill with leveling compound
   • Must be within 3/16" over 10 feet (check manufacturer)
4. Clean thoroughly (sweep and vacuum)
5. Check for moisture (use moisture meter in basements)
6. Install underlayment if required

Days 3-5: Layout and Planning

Plan your layout:

1. Measure rooms and calculate square footage
2. Add 10% for waste
3. Plan plank direction:
   • Parallel to longest wall (typical)
   • Following light direction from windows
   • Consider flow between rooms
4. Calculate starting row width:
   • Last row should be at least 2" wide
   • Adjust starting row if needed to balance
5. Determine where to start (usually longest, most visible wall)

Acclimate flooring:

• Leave flooring in house 48-72 hours before installation
• Room temperature 65-85°F
• Allows planks to adjust to humidity
• Stack flat, not on edge

Days 6-12: Installation

First row:

1. Remove tongue from first row planks (clean edge against wall)
2. Place 1/4" spacers against wall (expansion gap required)
3. Click planks together end-to-end
4. Continue full row
5. Cut last plank to fit (leave 1/4" gap at end wall)
6. Use cut-off to start second row (stagger minimum 6-8")

Subsequent rows:

1. Click plank into previous row at 20-30° angle
2. Lower to floor until click sounds/feels
3. Use tapping block and rubber mallet if needed (don't force!)
4. Stagger end joints minimum 6-8"
5. Maintain random appearance (avoid patterns)
6. Use spacers at walls to maintain expansion gap

Cutting planks:

• Straight cuts: vinyl cutter, table saw, or score and snap
• Intricate cuts: jigsaw with fine-tooth blade
• Pipe cuts: drill hole slightly larger, cut slit from edge, piece goes behind pipe
• Door trim: undercut with oscillating tool, slide plank under

Around obstacles:

• Door jambs: Undercut with oscillating tool, slide flooring under
• Vents: Template with cardboard, cut precisely
• Toilets: Remove toilet, install flooring, reinstall toilet
• Cabinets: Float floor under cabinet toe kicks

Days 13-14: Transitions and Finishing

Transitions:

• T-molding: Between rooms at equal heights
• Reducer: Transition to lower flooring (carpet, etc.)
• Threshold: Exterior doors
• Stair nose: Top of stairs
• Secure according to manufacturer (glue or fasten to subfloor)

Finishing touches:

1. Remove all spacers
2. Install quarter-round or base shoe to cover expansion gap
3. Caulk where flooring meets tubs/showers (use 100% silicone)
4. Install transition pieces at doorways
5. Clean flooring thoroughly
6. Apply cleaner/protectant per manufacturer

Do NOT:

• Nail or glue floating floors to subfloor (must float)
• Install without expansion gaps (floor will buckle)
• Install over high-moisture subfloors without vapor barrier

Code Requirements

Minimal code requirements for flooring:

• IRC R302.13 - Floor finishes: Flame spread limitations in certain areas
• IRC R311.7.5.1 - Stair treads: Minimum 10" depth, maximum 7-3/4" rise

Most code concerns relate to slip resistance in commercial applications, not residential.

Subcontractor Considerations

Typical pricing (varies by material):

• LVP installation: $2-$4 per sq ft labor
• Laminate installation: $2-$3 per sq ft labor
• Hardwood installation: $4-$8 per sq ft labor (nail-down)
• Tile installation: $5-$10 per sq ft labor
• Carpet installation: $1-$3 per sq ft labor

Example (2,000 sq ft LVP):

• Materials: $6,600-$15,400
• Labor: $4,000-$8,000
• Total: $10,600-$23,400

Timeline: 3-7 days for typical house (material dependent)

Common Mistakes

1. Inadequate Subfloor Prep

Why it's a problem: Uneven floors telegraph through, planks don't click, eventual failure. How to avoid: Level subfloor within manufacturer specs. Repair all damage. Cost if you don't: $3,000-$8,000 to remove flooring and start over.

2. No Expansion Gaps

Why it's a problem: Flooring buckles as it expands, boards lift, disaster. How to avoid: Maintain 1/4" to 3/8" gap at all walls and vertical surfaces. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$6,000 to remove and reinstall.

3. Not Acclimating Flooring

Why it's a problem: Planks expand or contract after installation, gaps or buckling. How to avoid: Leave flooring in house 48-72 hours at room temperature. Cost if you don't: Gaps, buckling, poor performance.

4. Inadequate Stagger

Why it's a problem: H-joints (three boards meeting), structural weakness, looks bad. How to avoid: Stagger end joints minimum 6-8". Randomize pattern. Cost if you don't: Weak floor, unprofessional appearance.

5. Installing Over Moisture

Why it's a problem: Mold, warping, adhesive failure, health hazards. How to avoid: Test moisture levels. Use vapor barrier if needed. Don't install over wet subfloor. Cost if you don't: $5,000-$15,000 mold remediation and replacement.

6. Wrong Direction

Why it's a problem: Doesn't flow with room, looks awkward, may not align with adjacent rooms. How to avoid: Plan direction before starting. Typically parallel to longest wall. Cost if you don't: Aesthetic disappointment, potential removal and reinstall.

7. Forcing Clicks

Why it's a problem: Breaks locking mechanisms, gaps develop, floor fails. How to avoid: If plank doesn't click easily, check for debris or subfloor issues. Don't force. Cost if you don't: Gaps, broken planks, floor failure.

8. Gluing Floating Floors

Why it's a problem: Can't expand/contract naturally, buckles and fails. How to avoid: Understand floating vs. glue-down vs. nail-down. Follow manufacturer specs. Cost if you don't: Complete floor failure, removal required.

Quality Checkpoints

Before considering flooring complete:

• [ ] Subfloor level, solid, clean, dry
• [ ] Flooring acclimated 48+ hours
• [ ] Expansion gaps maintained (1/4" to 3/8")
• [ ] All planks clicked securely
• [ ] End joints staggered properly (6-8" minimum)
• [ ] No H-joints (three boards meeting)
• [ ] Cuts around obstacles tight and clean
• [ ] Transitions installed at doorways
• [ ] Quarter-round or base shoe covers gaps
• [ ] No visible gaps between planks
• [ ] Floor feels solid when walked on
• [ ] Cleaned and protected per manufacturer

Budget Breakdown

Example for 2,000 sq ft house (material costs vary dramatically):

Budget Option (Laminate):

Mid-Grade Option (LVP):

High-End Option (Hardwood):

Timeline Tips

Scheduling:

• After trim complete (trim-first method)
• OR before trim (trim-last method)
• Climate controlled environment (65-85°F)
• Low humidity (preventing moisture issues)
• Allow acclimation time (48-72 hours)

Material-specific timelines:

• LVP/Laminate: 5-7 days (DIY)
• Hardwood: 7-10 days plus finish time (often hired)
• Tile: 10-14 days (often hired)
• Carpet: 2-3 days (usually hired)

What Comes Next

After flooring complete:

1. Kitchen and bath completion
2. Final painting touch-ups
3. Final fixtures and hardware

Link to: Kitchen and Bath Phase

Related Resources

• Flooring Material Comparison
• Subfloor Preparation Guide
• Flooring Calculator

Need Flooring Help?

Flooring installation is very DIY-able with proper preparation. If you're unsure about material selection or installation techniques, a consultation can help you choose the right option and avoid costly mistakes.