Site Preparation: Complete Guide
Overview
- Typical Duration: 2-4 weeks
- DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐☆☆☆ (2/5)
- Typical Cost: $15,000-$35,000 (for 1 acre lot)
- When to Hire: Heavy equipment work; DIY clearing and layout
- Required Inspection: Utility connection inspections
Site preparation is the first physical phase of construction. This phase transforms raw land into a buildable lot with access, utilities, and proper drainage. Rushing this phase or cutting corners creates problems that haunt the entire project.
I've seen builders save $5,000 on excavation only to spend $15,000 fixing drainage issues later. Good site prep is invisible when done right but catastrophic when done wrong.
When This Phase Happens
Site preparation happens before any vertical construction begins.
Must be complete first:
- Property survey completed
- Building permit issued
- Utilities located and marked
- Tree removal permit (if required)
Can happen in parallel:
- Finalizing foundation drawings
- Ordering long-lead materials (windows, steel beams)
- Lining up subcontractors for future phases
What comes after:
- Foundation layout and excavation
- Foundation construction
Should You DIY This Phase?
DIY If:
- You own or can borrow basic clearing equipment
- Lot has minimal trees and gentle slope
- You have experience with surveying and layout
- You have 2-3 full weeks available
- Soil conditions are simple (no rock or high water table)
Hire Out If:
- Significant tree removal needed (over 10 trees)
- Steep slopes requiring extensive cut and fill
- Rock excavation required
- Underground utilities are complex
- Septic system installation needed
- You don't have heavy equipment experience
My recommendation: Hire the heavy equipment work (excavation, tree removal, rough grading) but do your own clearing of small brush and site layout. This saves $3,000-$5,000 while leaving the critical work to professionals with proper equipment.
The most expensive mistakes happen during excavation - hitting utilities, improper grading, or over-excavating. A skilled operator pays for themselves.
Materials Needed
Primary Materials
| Item | Quantity | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gravel for driveway | 150-200 tons | $3,000-$5,000 | 12" base for construction traffic |
| Gravel for utility trenches | 20-30 tons | $600-$1,000 | Bedding and backfill |
| Erosion control fabric | 500-1,000 sq ft | $200-$400 | Silt fence around perimeter |
| Survey stakes | 50-100 stakes | $100-$200 | Layout and reference points |
| Temporary power pole | 1 complete | $1,200-$2,000 | Includes meter base and panel |
| Portable toilet rental | 10-12 months | $1,200-$2,000 | Monthly rental |
| Construction fence | 200-400 linear ft | $300-$600 | If required by jurisdiction |
Utility Connection Materials
| Item | Cost Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Water meter and tap | $800-$2,500 | Varies by distance from main |
| Electric service connection | $1,500-$5,000 | Distance and amperage dependent |
| Sewer connection | $2,000-$5,000 | If municipal available |
| Septic system | $8,000-$20,000 | If needed, whole separate project |
Tools Required
Essential:
- Measuring tape (100 ft)
- String line and line level
- Marking paint
- Chainsaw for small trees
- Hand tools (shovels, rakes, pick)
- Level or transit for checking grades
Nice to have:
- Laser level for precise grading
- Small tractor or skid steer
- Brush cutter for heavy vegetation
- GPS unit for reference points
Specialized (rent or hire):
- Excavator (track hoe) - $300-$500/day
- Bulldozer for major clearing - $500-$800/day
- Dump trucks for hauling - $80-$120/hour
- Stump grinder - $200-$300/day
- Rock hammer attachment - $200-$400/day
Step-by-Step Process
Week 1: Planning and Layout
Day 1-2: Site assessment and planning
- Walk the entire property with survey in hand
- Identify all property corners and verify survey markers
- Mark all trees to be saved with bright tape
- Locate and mark all underground utilities (call 811 first - required by law)
- Plan access routes for heavy equipment
- Identify stockpile areas for topsoil and materials
- Mark house corners per survey and building plans
Always call 811 at least 48 hours before digging. Hitting utilities can be deadly and costs $10,000+ to repair. It's free and required by law.
Day 3-5: Initial clearing
- Clear brush and small trees from building area
- Remove debris from access route
- Strip and stockpile topsoil from building footprint (6-12 inches)
- Create temporary access road base
- Set up erosion control at property perimeter
Stockpile topsoil separately from subsoil. You'll need it for final grading and landscaping. Good topsoil is worth $25-$40 per yard to replace.
Week 2: Heavy Equipment Work
Day 1-3: Tree removal and major clearing
- Remove trees marked for clearing (hire arborist for large trees)
- Grind stumps in building area and driveway
- Clear root systems from foundation area
- Haul away debris or chip for mulch
Cost consideration: Tree removal averages $800-$1,500 per large tree. Get multiple bids and verify insurance. An uninsured tree service is a lawsuit waiting to happen.
Day 4-5: Rough grading
- Establish rough building pad elevation
- Create positive drainage away from building area (minimum 6" drop in first 10 feet)
- Rough-grade access road and driveway
- Create swales for water management
- Ensure water drains to street or detention area
Grading must direct water AWAY from the foundation. This is code-required and prevents 90% of foundation water issues.
Week 3: Utility Installation
Day 1-2: Utility trenching
- Excavate trenches for water, electric, gas, sewer/septic
- Maintain minimum depths per code:
- Water: 18-36" (below frost line in cold climates)
- Electric: 24" minimum for direct burial cable
- Gas: 18-24" minimum
- Sewer: Slope 1/4" per foot toward connection
- Bed trenches with 4-6" of sand or pea gravel
Day 3-4: Utility installation
- Install water service line (hire licensed plumber)
- Install electrical service trench (coordinate with power company)
- Install sewer line or septic system (hire licensed installer)
- Install gas line if applicable (hire licensed gas fitter)
- Install communication lines (phone, cable, fiber)
Sleeve driveways with extra conduit now. Adding communication lines later requires cutting through your new driveway. I always run 2-3 extra 2" conduits for future use.
Day 5: Backfill and compact
- Inspect all utilities before backfilling
- Backfill in 8-12" lifts
- Compact each lift (critical for preventing settlement)
- Mark utility locations with stakes before covering
Week 4: Final Preparation
Day 1-2: Temporary utilities
- Install temporary power pole
- 200-amp service minimum
- Weather-proof panel
- GFCI outlets required
- Minimum 10 feet from building
- Install temporary water connection with backflow preventer
- Set up portable toilet
- Install job site security if needed
Day 3-4: Access and drainage
- Install 12" gravel base on driveway (construction traffic is heavy)
- Create material staging areas
- Install silt fence at property perimeter
- Verify all drainage working properly (test with hose)
- Create barriers around trees to be saved
Day 5: Final layout
- Set batter boards for foundation corners
- String lines for foundation footprint
- Verify all dimensions against plans
- Mark all utility locations clearly
- Take photos of site conditions for records
Foundation layout must be exact. A 1" error here becomes a major problem when walls don't fit. Verify diagonal measurements - they should match if corners are square.
Code Requirements
Key code items for site preparation:
-
IRC R401.3 - Drainage: Surface drainage must direct water away from foundation walls. Minimum 6" fall in first 10 feet.
-
IRC R403.1.4 - Frost protection: Footings must extend below frost depth (varies by location - check local codes)
-
IRC P2603.5 - Water service: Minimum 3/4" service line, 18" minimum depth (more in cold climates)
-
IRC P3005.2 - Sewer depth: Minimum 12" of cover, maximum 1/4" per foot slope
-
NFPA 70 (NEC) 300.5 - Electrical burial depths: Minimum 24" for direct burial cable, 18" in conduit
-
Local erosion control ordinances: Most jurisdictions require silt fence and erosion control for sites over 1/4 acre
-
Tree protection ordinances: Many areas have protected species or size limits. Verify before cutting.
Subcontractor Considerations
If hiring site work contractors:
What to look for:
- Proper equipment for your site (track hoe size, truck access)
- Experience with residential foundations (not just dirt work)
- Knowledge of local drainage requirements
- References from recent similar projects
- Appropriate insurance ($1M general liability minimum)
- Understanding of utility protection requirements
Typical pricing:
- Excavation: $100-$150 per hour for operator and machine
- Tree removal: $800-$1,500 per large tree
- Rough grading: $2,000-$5,000 for typical lot
- Driveway base: $12-$18 per linear foot
- Utility trenching: $8-$15 per linear foot
- Septic system: $8,000-$20,000 complete
Timeline:
- Lead time to book: 1-3 weeks (longer in spring)
- Duration once started: 3-8 days for typical residential lot
- Weather delays: Plan for 3-5 weather days in typical season
Red flags:
- No insurance or "my buddy has insurance"
- Won't provide references
- Pressure to skip permits or inspections
- No written contract or change order process
- Requires large deposit upfront (25% max is reasonable)
- Can start "tomorrow" (good contractors are booked out)
Get at least 3 bids and check references. The lowest bid often comes from someone who forgot something major. Middle bid is usually your best value.
Common Mistakes
1. Not Calling 811 Before Digging
Why it's a problem: Hitting utilities can be fatal, shut down the project, and cost $10,000-$100,000 in repairs and legal liability. How to avoid: Call 811 at least 48 hours before any digging. It's free and legally required. Hand-dig within 18" of marked utilities. Cost if you don't: $50,000-$500,000 in damages and legal fees, possible criminal charges.
2. Poor Drainage Planning
Why it's a problem: Water pools around foundation, causes basement flooding, foundation movement, and crawl space moisture issues. How to avoid: Grade minimum 6" fall in first 10 feet. Create swales to direct water away. Test with water before foundation. Cost if you don't: $5,000-$25,000 for drainage correction after construction, possible foundation repairs.
3. Not Stockpiling Topsoil
Why it's a problem: Have to buy topsoil for landscaping at $30-$40 per yard. How to avoid: Strip and stockpile topsoil before grading. Keep separate from subsoil. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$5,000 for replacement topsoil.
4. Skimping on Driveway Base
Why it's a problem: Construction traffic destroys thin gravel. Creates mud pit that delays construction and costs money to fix. How to avoid: Install minimum 12" compacted gravel base. Budget $3,000-$5,000 for construction access. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$8,000 to repair destroyed driveway, project delays.
5. Ignoring Erosion Control
Why it's a problem: Sediment washes onto neighbor's property or into waterways. Code violations, stop-work orders, fines. How to avoid: Install silt fence before starting work. Maintain throughout project. Cost if you don't: $500-$5,000 in fines, potential stop-work order, neighbor lawsuits.
6. Improper Utility Depths
Why it's a problem: Fails inspection, must excavate and reinstall. Water lines freeze. Electric lines are safety hazard. How to avoid: Verify code requirements before trenching. Measure depth before backfilling. Get inspection. Cost if you don't: $3,000-$8,000 to excavate and reinstall.
7. Not Protecting Trees to be Saved
Why it's a problem: Construction equipment damages roots, compacts soil, kills valuable trees. Some jurisdictions fine $500-$5,000 per tree. How to avoid: Fence off drip line. No storage or traffic within drip line. No grade changes around trees. Cost if you don't: Lost trees worth $2,000-$10,000 each, possible fines.
8. Inadequate Temporary Power
Why it's a problem: 100-amp service trips constantly with multiple tools. Delays work, damages tools. How to avoid: Install 200-amp temporary service. Include multiple circuits and GFCI protection. Cost if you don't: $1,000-$2,000 to upgrade later, work delays.
9. Wrong Foundation Elevation
Why it's a problem: House is too low (drainage issues) or too high (excessive fill, step problems). How to avoid: Verify finish floor elevation before grading. Account for foundation height, floor systems, finish flooring. Cost if you don't: Cannot fix without re-grading entire site - $5,000-$20,000.
10. No Construction Access Plan
Why it's a problem: Heavy trucks get stuck, damage yard, can't deliver materials. Delays entire project. How to avoid: Plan truck access routes. Install gravel base wide enough for concrete trucks (12-14 feet). Account for turning radius. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$5,000 in towing, site repairs, and redelivery charges.
Quality Checkpoints
Before moving to foundation phase, verify:
- [ ] All utilities located and marked (811 call completed)
- [ ] Tree protection installed around trees to be saved
- [ ] Silt fence and erosion control in place
- [ ] Building pad is level and at correct elevation (±3")
- [ ] Positive drainage away from building area (minimum 6" in 10 feet)
- [ ] Topsoil stockpiled for later use
- [ ] Access road has 12" gravel base, compacted
- [ ] All utility trenches at correct depth and slope
- [ ] Utilities inspected before backfilling
- [ ] Temporary power installed and energized (200-amp minimum)
- [ ] Temporary water connected with backflow preventer
- [ ] Portable toilet on site
- [ ] Material staging areas identified and prepared
- [ ] Foundation corners laid out with batter boards
- [ ] Diagonal measurements match (confirms square corners)
- [ ] All dimensions verified against building plans
- [ ] Utility locations clearly marked
- [ ] Site photos documented for records
- [ ] All inspections passed (utility connections)
Budget Breakdown
Example for 1-acre lot, 2,000 sq ft home:
| Item | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| **Survey and Engineering** | ||
| Property survey | $500-$800 | If not already done |
| Site plan and grading plan | $800-$1,500 | Required for permit |
| **Clearing and Grading** | ||
| Tree removal (8 trees) | $6,000-$10,000 | Large hardwoods |
| Stump grinding | $1,200-$2,000 | Building area and driveway |
| Excavation and grading | $3,000-$5,000 | 2-3 days with excavator |
| Topsoil stripping and stockpile | $800-$1,200 | Included in grading |
| Erosion control | $400-$600 | Silt fence perimeter |
| **Utilities** | ||
| Water service and meter | $2,000-$3,500 | 150 feet from main |
| Electric service trench | $1,500-$2,500 | 200 feet to transformer |
| Sewer connection | $3,000-$5,000 | Or $12,000-$18,000 for septic |
| Gas line (if available) | $1,200-$2,000 | 150 feet from main |
| **Site Improvements** | ||
| Driveway gravel base | $3,500-$5,000 | 300 feet x 12 feet x 12" |
| **Temporary Facilities** | ||
| Temporary power pole | $1,200-$1,800 | 200-amp service |
| Portable toilet (12 months) | $1,200-$1,800 | Monthly rental |
| **Contingency** | $2,000-$3,000 | Rock, unexpected utilities |
| **Total** | **$27,300-$44,700** | Typical range for 1-acre lot |
Site costs vary enormously by location, soil conditions, and utility access. Get local bids before finalizing your budget. I've seen similar lots range from $15,000 to $60,000.
Timeline Tips
Best season: Late spring through fall in most climates. Avoid winter in areas with frozen ground.
Weather considerations:
- Heavy rain delays excavation (soil can't compact when wet)
- Plan for 3-5 weather delay days
- Don't start excavation right before a rainy period
- Frozen ground prevents utility installation in winter
Scheduling with other trades:
- Book excavator 2-4 weeks in advance (more in spring)
- Coordinate utility companies early (they often have 2-4 week lead times)
- Tree removal in winter is cheaper (no leaves, easier cleanup)
- Septic installation requires separate permitting (add 4-6 weeks)
Critical path items:
- Utility company scheduling (can't control this)
- Weather for excavation and grading
- Inspection approval before backfilling utilities
- Power company to energize temporary service
What Comes Next
After completing site preparation:
- Foundation layout - Precise staking of foundation corners and dimensions
- Foundation excavation - Digging footings to code depth
- Foundation inspection - Footing inspection before pouring concrete
- Foundation construction - Forms, rebar, concrete placement
Typical gap between phases: 1-2 weeks to schedule foundation contractor
What you can do while waiting:
- Finalize foundation details with building department
- Order foundation materials (forms, rebar, concrete)
- Line up foundation contractor
- Continue site cleanup and preparation
- Install foundation drainage materials
Link to: Foundation Construction Phase
Need Help With Site Planning?
Site preparation sets the foundation (literally) for your entire project. Poor site work causes problems that haunt you through the whole build.
If you're unsure about drainage, utility placement, or grading, a site visit consultation can save you thousands in problems later.