Final Inspection: Pass on First Try and Get Your CO
The final inspection is the last hurdle before you get your Certificate of Occupancy (CO) and can legally move in.
This is where the inspector verifies everything is complete, safe, and functional. Pass on first try and you're moving in within days. Fail and you're looking at another week minimum of delays.
When to Schedule
Timing: After ALL work is 100% complete and house is ready for occupancy
Do not call for final inspection if anything on this list is incomplete. Inspectors will fail you immediately:
- All previous inspections passed (foundation, framing, rough-in, insulation)
- All finish work complete (drywall, paint, flooring, trim, doors)
- All fixtures installed and functional (plumbing, electrical, lighting)
- All mechanical systems operational (HVAC, water heater)
- All safety items complete (smoke detectors, CO detectors, handrails, guards)
- Permanent power connected
- All utilities connected and functional
- Site work substantially complete (grading, driveway, walkways)
"Substantially complete" is not good enough. Inspector wants 100% done.
Notice required: 48-72 hours typically (longer during busy spring/summer seasons)
Failing final inspection is uniquely frustrating because you're so close to done.
Better to take an extra week making sure every detail is complete than to fail and delay your CO another 1-2 weeks.
I've seen owner-builders call final 3-4 times before passing. Each failure delays move-in and costs $1,000+ in holding costs per week.
Weather: Exterior items must be complete, so weather can delay final. Don't schedule final if forecasting heavy rain or snow that would prevent exterior work completion.
What the Inspector Checks
The final inspection is comprehensive. The inspector verifies:
- Previous inspection items are still correct (may spot-check)
- All finish work is complete
- All safety items are installed
- House is safe and ready for occupancy
Exterior Items
Siding and weather protection:
- Siding completely installed
- Properly flashed at penetrations
- Sealed around windows and doors
- Trim installed
- No gaps or openings
Roof:
- Shingles or roofing completely installed
- Flashing properly installed
- No visible defects
- Valleys properly sealed
Gutters and downspouts:
- Installed and functional
- Directed away from foundation
- Splash blocks or extensions installed
Grading and drainage:
- Final grade slopes away from foundation (6" drop in 10')
- No ponding near foundation
- Drainage functional
Decks and porches (if applicable):
- Guards installed where required (30"+ drop)
- Handrails installed on stairs (4+ risers)
- Proper height and spacing (4" sphere test)
- Structurally complete
Site safety:
- No open excavations
- Temporary construction items removed
- Safe access to house
Interior Finish
Walls and ceilings:
- Drywall complete and finished
- Painted or finished
- No unfinished areas
- Penetrations and boxes finished
Flooring:
- Installed in all areas
- Transitions complete
- No tripping hazards
Doors:
- All interior doors installed
- Operating properly
- Locksets installed
- Self-closing/latching where required (garage to house)
Trim and millwork:
- Baseboards installed
- Door and window casings complete
- Ceiling trim if applicable
Stairs:
- Handrail installed (34-38" height)
- Graspable profile
- Continuous for length of stairs
- Returns to wall or post at ends
- Guards where required (30"+ drop)
- No missing or damaged treads
Plumbing Fixtures
Bathrooms:
- Toilet installed and functional
- Sink/vanity installed
- Faucet operational
- Drain working (no leaks)
- Shower/tub complete
- Shower door or enclosure installed
- Anti-scald protection functional
Kitchen:
- Sink installed and functional
- Faucet operational
- Dishwasher installed if applicable
- Garbage disposal if applicable
- Ice maker connection if applicable
Water heater:
- Installed and operational
- TPR valve discharge pipe properly installed
- Proper clearances maintained
- Venting complete and proper (if fuel-fired)
- Drain pan and drain if required
Fixtures properly finished:
- All fixtures connected
- All supply stops installed
- No leaks visible
- All trim plates installed
Electrical Fixtures
Service panel:
- Cover installed
- All breakers labeled (what they control)
- Main disconnect labeled
- Warning labels installed
- Directory complete
Receptacles and switches:
- All cover plates installed
- All outlets functioning
- GFCI outlets tested and working
- Switches controlling correct lights
- No missing plates
Lighting:
- All light fixtures installed
- All working
- Proper bulbs installed
- Required lighting in all rooms
Appliance connections:
- Range/cooktop connected
- Hood connected if applicable
- Dishwasher connected
- Disposal connected if applicable
- All operational
Exterior outlets and lights:
- Installed and functioning
- GFCI protected
- Weatherproof covers installed (in-use type if outlet)
- Exterior lights at entries functional
HVAC and Mechanical
Heating system:
- Installed and operational
- Thermostat installed and functioning
- Adequate heat throughout house
- Venting complete (if fuel-fired)
- Filter installed
Air conditioning (if applicable):
- Installed and operational
- Thermostat functioning
- Adequate cooling
- Condensate drain working
- Disconnect installed at outdoor unit
Ventilation:
- Bathroom exhaust fans installed and working
- Kitchen exhaust installed and working (if required)
- Dryer vent complete and proper
- All venting to exterior
Return air:
- Grilles installed
- Filter access
- Filter installed
Life Safety Items (Critical!)
Smoke detectors (IRC R314):
- One in each bedroom
- One outside each sleeping area
- One on each level (including basement)
- Hard-wired with battery backup
- Interconnected (test that all sound together)
- Properly installed per manufacturer specs
Carbon monoxide detectors (IRC R315):
- One outside each sleeping area
- One on each level
- Hard-wired with battery backup
- Interconnected
- Proper type for location
Handrails (IRC R311.7.8):
- Installed on stairs with 4+ risers
- Height 34-38" measured above stair nosing
- Graspable (typically 1-1/4" to 2" diameter)
- Continuous for length of stairs
- Capable of supporting 200 lbs
Guards/guardrails (IRC R312):
- Installed at all drops 30" or greater
- Minimum 36" height (42" some jurisdictions)
- Balusters spaced so 4" sphere can't pass through
- Structurally adequate (50 lbs concentrated load)
Tempered glass (IRC R308.4):
- Installed where required
- Labeled in corner
- No regular glass in hazardous locations
Egress windows (IRC R310):
- Operational
- Open fully
- Minimum opening maintained
- Window wells with ladder if required
Fire-rated assemblies:
- Garage separation from house (if attached)
- Fire-rated door between garage and house
- Self-closing and latching
- No penetrations in fire wall without proper sealing
Windows and Doors
Exterior doors:
- Installed and operational
- Locksets installed and working
- Weatherstripping installed
- Thresholds complete
- Self-closing garage door if required
Windows:
- All installed
- All operational
- Screens installed (if provided)
- Locks functioning
- No broken glass
Garage door:
- Installed and operational
- Auto-reverse functioning (critical safety item)
- Photo eye sensors working
- Manual release working
Final Details
Address numbers:
- Installed and visible from street
- Minimum size (often 4" high)
- Contrasting color
Stair identification (if more than 2 stories):
- Floor numbers marked in stairwell
- Exit signage if required
Attic access:
- Accessible
- Minimum size (22" x 30" typical)
- Insulated and weatherstripped
Crawlspace access:
- Accessible
- Minimum size (18" x 24" typical)
Electrical panel access:
- Clear working space (30" x 36" x 6'6")
- No storage blocking access
Water heater access:
- Clear working space
- Accessible for service
Furnace/HVAC access:
- Clear working space
- Service access adequate
- Filter accessible
Before the Inspector Arrives
One Week Before
- [ ] Walk through entire house with critical eye
- [ ] Make punch list of incomplete items
- [ ] Complete all items on punch list
- [ ] Test all systems and fixtures
- [ ] Install all missing cover plates, fixtures, trim
- [ ] Test smoke and CO detectors (interconnection)
- [ ] Install address numbers
- [ ] Complete exterior grading and drainage
48 Hours Before
- [ ] Deep clean entire house
- [ ] Remove all construction debris
- [ ] Clear all working spaces (panels, equipment)
- [ ] Test all plumbing fixtures for leaks
- [ ] Test all electrical outlets and switches
- [ ] Test all HVAC systems
- [ ] Verify smoke/CO detectors working and interconnected
- [ ] Check that all handrails and guards installed
- [ ] Verify garage door auto-reverse working
- [ ] Make sure all trim plates installed
- [ ] Install light bulbs in all fixtures
Final Checklist (Morning of Inspection)
Safety items (most critical):
- [ ] Smoke detectors installed, tested, interconnected
- [ ] CO detectors installed, tested, interconnected
- [ ] Handrails on all stairs (4+ risers)
- [ ] Guards at all drops 30"+
- [ ] Tempered glass where required
- [ ] Garage door auto-reverse working
Functional items:
- [ ] All plumbing fixtures working, no leaks
- [ ] All electrical outlets and switches working
- [ ] All lights operational
- [ ] HVAC heating and cooling working
- [ ] All ventilation fans working
- [ ] All appliances connected and working
Finish items:
- [ ] All cover plates installed
- [ ] All doors installed with hardware
- [ ] All trim and finishes complete
- [ ] Address numbers installed
- [ ] Site substantially complete
Access and clearances:
- [ ] Electrical panel accessible with clear space
- [ ] Water heater accessible
- [ ] Furnace/HVAC accessible
- [ ] Attic access clear
- [ ] No storage blocking required access
General:
- [ ] House cleaned
- [ ] Debris removed
- [ ] Plans on site
- [ ] Permit posted
- [ ] You present
During the Inspection
Inspector's Typical Route
Exterior first (typically):
- Overall building appearance
- Roof and flashing
- Siding and trim
- Grading and drainage
- Decks, porches, stairs
- Address numbers visible
Interior comprehensive:
- Each room: Finish work, floors, walls, ceilings, trim
- Electrical: Outlets, switches, lights, panel labeled
- Plumbing: Fixtures functional, no leaks
- HVAC: System operational, vents installed
- Life safety: Smoke/CO detectors (tests interconnection), handrails, guards
- Stairs: Handrails, guards, dimensions
- Garage: Separation door, auto-reverse on door
- Attic/crawl access: Accessible, proper size
- Mechanical equipment: Accessible, operational
Timeline: 1-3 hours depending on house size
Your role:
- Be present and available
- Follow inspector around
- Answer questions
- Demonstrate systems working (smoke detectors, garage door, etc.)
- Take detailed notes on any issues
- Don't argue or explain away deficiencies
- Thank inspector at end
Be prepared to demonstrate:
- Smoke detector interconnection (push test button on one, verify all sound)
- CO detector functioning
- Garage door auto-reverse (lay 2x4 under door, should reverse on contact)
- All HVAC systems working (heat and cool)
Top 15 Final Inspection Failures
These are the most common reasons owner-builders fail final inspection. Every single one is avoidable.
More final inspections fail on smoke and CO detectors than any other single item.
Requirements:
- Every bedroom needs a detector
- Outside each sleeping area needs a detector
- Every level of the home needs a detector
- All must be hard-wired with battery backup
- All must be interconnected (when one sounds, ALL sound)
Test before calling final: Push test button on one detector. If all detectors don't sound, you will fail.
| Failure | Code | How to Fix | Re-Inspect Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| **1. Smoke/CO Detectors Not Interconnected**<br/>Missing detectors or not wired to sound together | IRC R314<br/>IRC R315 | Install missing detectors, ensure all interconnected and tested | 1-3 days | $200-$600 |
| **2. Missing or Improper Handrails**<br/>No handrail on stairs or not code-compliant | IRC R311.7.8 | Install code-compliant handrail (34-38" height, graspable) | 3-5 days | $300-$1,200 |
| **3. Guards Missing or Balusters Too Wide**<br/>No guard at elevated surface or spacing too wide | IRC R312 | Install guards (36" min height, 4" sphere test) | 3-7 days | $500-$2,500 |
| **4. Garage Door Auto-Reverse Not Working**<br/>Door doesn't reverse when meeting obstruction | UL 325 | Adjust opener sensitivity or replace opener | 1-3 days | $100-$400 |
| **5. Missing Electrical Cover Plates**<br/>Outlets or switches without cover plates | NEC 406.5 | Install all missing cover plates | 1-2 days | $50-$150 |
| **6. Electrical Panel Not Labeled**<br/>Breakers not labeled indicating what they control | NEC 408.4 | Label all breakers properly with circuit directory | 1-2 days | $50-$150 |
| **7. Plumbing Leak**<br/>Active leak at fixture, supply line, or drain | Various | Repair leak (common: under sinks, toilets, showers) | 1-3 days | $100-$500 |
| **8. HVAC Not Operational**<br/>Heating or cooling system not working | Various | Complete HVAC startup, charge refrigerant, verify operational | 2-5 days | $200-$800 |
| **9. Missing Tempered Glass**<br/>Regular glass in hazardous location | IRC R308.4 | Replace with tempered glass (near doors, tubs, walking surfaces) | 3-7 days | $300-$1,500 |
| **10. Grading Not Sloping Away**<br/>Ground slopes toward foundation or doesn't slope enough | IRC R401.3 | Regrade (6" drop in 10' away from foundation) | 3-7 days | $800-$3,000 |
| **11. Missing TPR Discharge Pipe**<br/>Water heater T&P relief valve discharge not proper | IRC P2804 | Install discharge pipe (6-24" above floor, no threads on end) | 1-2 days | $100-$300 |
| **12. Bathroom Ventilation Not Working**<br/>Exhaust fan not working or not vented to exterior | IRC R303.3 | Connect fan, verify venting to exterior (not attic) | 2-4 days | $200-$600 |
| **13. Missing Address Numbers**<br/>House number not posted or not visible from street | IRC R319.1 | Install address numbers (4" high min, visible, contrasting) | 1-2 days | $50-$150 |
| **14. Egress Window Not Operational**<br/>Required bedroom window won't open fully | IRC R310 | Make window operational (can't be painted shut) | 1-3 days | $100-$500 |
| **15. Work Not Complete**<br/>Finish work incomplete (trim, paint, flooring) | Various | Complete all finish work and punch list items | 5-14 days | $1,000-$5,000+ |
Walk through and test every item on this list:
- Push test button on ONE smoke detector - all detectors should sound
- Test garage door auto-reverse with 2x4 under door
- Turn on every light and fan
- Flush every toilet, run every faucet, look for leaks
- Test HVAC in both heating and cooling modes
- Check all handrails are secure and proper height
- Verify all electrical cover plates installed
- Check breaker panel is fully labeled
These are the most common failures. Test them yourself before the inspector does.
If You Fail
Final inspection failures are extremely common, even for experienced builders.
Most failures are minor items that take 1-3 days to fix. Very few owner-builders pass final on the first attempt.
Get Written Details
Request from the inspector:
- Written list of ALL deficiencies
- Code references if applicable
- Specific requirements to correct each item
- Photos if inspector took any
Ask questions immediately: If unclear about anything, ask for clarification while inspector is still there.
Prioritize Corrections
1. Safety Items First
2. Functional Items Next
3. Finish Items Last
Common Fixes and Timeline
| Issue | How to Fix | Timeline | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Smoke/CO detectors | Install/interconnect all detectors, test | 1-3 days | $200-$600 |
| Missing handrail | Install code-compliant handrail | 3-5 days | $300-$1,200 |
| Cover plates | Install all missing plates | 1 day | $50-$150 |
| Panel labeling | Label all breakers in directory | 1 day | $50-$150 |
| Plumbing leak | Repair leak, verify no drips | 1-3 days | $100-$500 |
| Garage auto-reverse | Adjust opener sensitivity | 1-2 days | $100-$400 |
| Address numbers | Install visible numbers | 1 day | $50-$150 |
| Grading issues | Regrade around foundation | 3-7 days | $800-$3,000 |
Re-Inspection Process
Complete ALL Corrections
Test Everything Yourself
Call for Re-Inspection
Be Present & Demonstrate
Re-inspection timeline: Usually 2-5 days depending on jurisdiction workload and season.
Getting Your Certificate of Occupancy
When You Pass
Inspector will:
- Note that final inspection passed
- Submit for CO issuance
- Inform you of next steps
CO issuance:
- Some jurisdictions issue same day
- Others require 1-3 business days for processing
- May need to pick up at building department
- Some mail or email digital copy
What CO allows:
- Legal occupancy
- Utilities to remain connected
- Homeowner's insurance takes effect
- Can move in
Keep your CO:
- Permanent record
- May need for refinancing
- May need for resale
- May need for insurance
Temporary CO (TCO)
Some jurisdictions issue temporary CO if:
- Minor items remain (landscaping, final paving, etc.)
- House is safe to occupy
- Work will be completed soon
TCO typically:
- Valid for 30-90 days
- Allows occupancy
- Requires completion of punch list items
- Converts to permanent CO when complete
Not all jurisdictions offer TCO. Ask beforehand.
Cost of Delay
Each week final inspection is delayed:
- Can't move in: Rent/mortgage double payment ($1,500-$3,000/month)
- Construction loan interest: $100-$200/week
- Utilities without occupancy: Some jurisdictions restrict this
- Insurance: Builder's risk vs. homeowner's
One month delay = $2,000-$4,000 in double housing costs
However: Don't rush. Better to delay and pass than fail repeatedly.
Final Inspection Ready Checklist
Use this comprehensive checklist 1-2 weeks before calling final. Every item must be checked off.
The safety items checklist below contains the most common final inspection failures.
If ANY safety item is incomplete, you will fail. No exceptions. Test smoke detector interconnection before calling final.
Safety Items (Most Critical)
Functional Items
Completeness Checklist
Code & Access Items
Pro Tips for Passing Final
Walk through with this guide 1-2 weeks before calling final.
Make a punch list of everything not complete. Work through it systematically. Don't call final until your own inspection finds zero issues.
Most owner-builders who pass on first try did a thorough self-inspection first.
Don't trust that things work. Test every single item:
- Every outlet with circuit tester
- Every light switch and fixture
- Every plumbing fixture (run water, check for leaks)
- HVAC both heat and cool modes
- Every smoke/CO detector (push button on ONE, verify ALL sound)
- Garage door auto-reverse (2x4 under door)
- Every door and window opens/closes/locks
Whatever the inspector will test, you test first.
Before calling final, take photos and videos:
- All smoke detectors sounding together
- Garage door auto-reverse working
- HVAC running in heat and cool
- All lights on
- Water running in all fixtures, no leaks
- Address numbers visible from street
If inspector questions anything weeks later, you have timestamped proof it was working at final.
Bring the Inspector Success
Set up for success:
- House thoroughly cleaned
- Clear access to everything (attic, panel, water heater, etc.)
- All systems tested and working
- You present, prepared, and professional
- Positive attitude
Inspectors appreciate homes that are truly ready. A well-prepared final inspection often goes smoother and faster.
Don't Rush Final
Common mistake: Calling final when house is 95% done, thinking "close enough."
Better approach: Finish that last 5%, then call. One week of extra prep work beats failing and waiting another 1-2 weeks for re-inspection.
The cost of delay from failure ($1,000-2,500/week) far exceeds the cost of taking time to finish properly.
After You Pass
Immediate Next Steps
- Get your CO from building department
- Contact insurance company to convert builder's risk to homeowner's policy
- Notify utility companies if needed
- Notify lender that CO issued
- Keep CO in safe placeCongratulations on building your house!** Getting to final inspection is a massive achievement.