House Framing: Complete Guide

Overview

• Typical Duration: 3-6 weeks
• DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆ (3/5)
• Typical Cost: $30,000-$60,000 (2,000 sq ft house)
• When to Hire: Walls and floor DIY-able; roof framing often hired
• Required Inspection: Framing inspection before covering

Framing is when your house takes shape. In 3-6 weeks, the structure goes from foundation to recognizable house. This is one of the most rewarding phases for owner-builders - visible progress happens daily.

Framing is also very DIY-able if you have basic carpentry skills and helpers. I've worked with dozens of owner-builders who successfully framed their homes, saving $15,000-$25,000 in labor costs.

When This Phase Happens

Framing happens immediately after foundation is complete and inspected.

Must be complete first:

• Foundation complete and inspected
• Sill plate installed and bolted
• Termite treatment (if required)
• Floor framing materials on site
• Framing lumber package delivered

Can happen in parallel:

• Ordering windows and doors (8-12 week lead time)
• Lining up HVAC contractor
• Planning electrical and plumbing rough-in

What comes after:

• Roofing installation (priority - protect from weather)
• Window and door installation
• Rough-in trades (plumbing, electrical, HVAC)

Should You DIY This Phase?

DIY If:

• You have basic carpentry skills (can read plans, use power tools)
• Have 2-4 helpers available consistently
• Have 4-6 weeks available (working weekends = 3-4 months)
• Building simple rectangular house (no complex roof lines)
• Comfortable working at heights with proper safety
• Can rent or own necessary tools

Hire Out If:

• No carpentry experience
• Complex roof design (multiple valleys, dormers, unusual pitches)
• Cannot get consistent help
• Uncomfortable with heights
• Want professional speed (3 weeks vs 3+ months DIY)
• Need quick weather protection

My recommendation: DIY the floor framing and walls, hire out the roof framing. This gives you the satisfaction of building your walls while getting professional roof framing that's weathertight quickly.

Floor and walls are straightforward and done at comfortable heights. Roof framing requires more skill, special equipment, and has serious fall risks. Hiring roof framing costs $8,000-$12,000 but happens in 3-5 days with expert results.

Materials Needed

Lumber Package (2,000 sq ft, two-story)

Fasteners and Hardware

Tools Required

Essential:

• Circular saw (7-1/4")
• Cordless drill/driver (2+ recommended)
• Framing nailer (rent or buy - $300-$600)
• Speed square and framing square
• 25-foot tape measures (multiple)
• 6-foot and 4-foot levels
• Chalk line
• Sledge hammer
• Cat's paw and pry bar
• Safety harnesses and fall protection

Nice to have:

• Miter saw (10" or 12")
• Table saw for ripping
• Cordless circular saw
• Laser level for wall placement
• Wall jacks for standing walls
• Scaffolding for upper levels

Specialized (rent):

• Telehandler or forklift - $300-$500/day (invaluable for setting beams and lifting materials)
• Pneumatic framing nailers - $40-$60/day each
• Air compressor - $50-$80/day
• Scaffolding - $150-$300/week
• Wall braces and jacks - $100-$200/week

Step-by-Step Process

Week 1: Floor Framing

Days 1-2: Sill plate installation

• Install sill seal foam gasket on foundation
• Set pressure-treated sill plate over anchor bolts
• Mark and drill bolt holes (slightly oversized for adjustment)
• Level sill plate with shims if needed (±1/8" is acceptable)
• Tighten anchor bolts with washers (don't overtighten - can crack plate)
• Verify sill plate is square (check diagonals)

Days 3-5: Floor joist installation

• Mark joist locations 16" on center on sill plates
• Install rim joist around entire perimeter
• Cut and install floor joists
  • Use joist hangers at all connections
  • Crown up (mark with arrow)
  • Block between joists every 8 feet
  • Double joists under parallel walls
• Install additional framing for:
  • Bathtubs (doubled joists)
  • Point loads (columns, heavy fixtures)
  • Stairwell openings (headers and trimmers)
• Walk and check for bounce (should be solid, minimal deflection)

Days 6-7: Subfloor installation

• Snap chalk lines for sheet layout (start with full sheets)
• Apply construction adhesive to joists (full bead)
• Lay subfloor perpendicular to joists
• Stagger seams (minimum 4 feet between end joints)
• Leave 1/8" gaps between sheets for expansion
• Screw every 6" at edges, 12" in field
• Use tongue-and-groove edges (glue the tongues)
• Cut openings for stairs, mechanical chases

Week 2-3: Wall Framing

Week 2, Days 1-2: Layout and bottom plates

• Snap chalk lines for all interior and exterior walls
• Cut and install bottom plates (exterior walls use treated lumber)
• Mark stud locations 16" on center on bottom plates
• Mark all door and window rough openings
• Mark locations for electrical outlets and switches (for blocking later)

Week 2, Days 3-5: Wall assembly (build flat, then stand)

• Build walls lying flat on subfloor (much easier than stick-building)
• For each wall section:
  • Cut top and bottom plates to length
  • Mark stud locations on both plates simultaneously
  • Cut studs to length (92-5/8" for 8-foot walls with double top plate)
  • Lay out studs between plates
  • Frame rough openings (king studs, jack studs, headers, cripples)
  • Nail together (two 16d nails each connection)
  • Apply sheathing before standing (much easier)
  • Cut window and door openings in sheathing

Header sizing (critical for structural integrity):

• 3-foot opening: 2x6 header
• 4-5 foot opening: 2x8 header
• 6-8 foot opening: 2x10 header
• 9-12 foot opening: 2x12 header or engineered beam
• Always verify with span tables or engineer

Week 2-3, Days 6-10: Standing walls

• Stand exterior walls first (requires 4-6 people per wall)
• Brace temporarily with diagonal braces to deck
• Plumb walls in both directions (use 6-foot level)
• Nail bottom plate to deck
• Install double top plate
  • Overlap corners and intersections
  • Create continuous tie around entire structure
  • Stagger joints from bottom plate
• Stand interior walls
• Frame wall intersections with backing studs for drywall

Safety checklist for standing walls:

• [ ] Enough helpers (1 person per 4-6 feet of wall)
• [ ] Clear path for wall to stand
• [ ] Temporary braces ready
• [ ] Weather is calm (no wind)
• [ ] Everyone understands the plan
• [ ] Bottom plate nailed at corners (prevents sliding)

Week 3-4: Second Floor Framing (if applicable)

• Repeat floor framing process for second level
• Build directly on first floor walls (top plates become floor joist bearing)
• Pay special attention to:
  • Alignment of joists with studs below (transfer loads)
  • Openings for stairs
  • Cantilevers (typically 2 feet maximum)
  • Load-bearing wall locations

Week 4-6: Roof Framing

Roof framing options:

1. Stick-built rafters (traditional, most DIY-able)

   • Cut rafters on ground using pattern rafter
   • Install ridge beam
   • Install rafters 16" or 24" on center
   • Add collar ties or rafter ties per code
   • Install roof sheathing

2. Engineered trusses (fastest, most common)

   • Order trusses engineered for your design
   • Crane sets trusses in one day
   • Brace properly per truss manufacturer
   • Sheath immediately for stability

3. Engineered lumber (I-joists, LVL ridges)

   • Longer spans, less depth
   • Requires following manufacturer specs exactly
   • More expensive but allows open floor plans

My recommendation: Engineered trusses for most owner-builders. They arrive engineered, set in one day with a crane, and take the complexity out of roof framing. Cost is similar to stick-building when you factor in labor.

Stick-built roof framing (if you choose this route):

Days 1-2: Layout and ridge beam

• Calculate rafter lengths using rise/run (or use rafter table)
• Determine birdsmouth depth (max 1/3 of rafter depth)
• Set ridge beam at proper height
• Support ridge with temporary posts

Days 3-5: Rafter installation

• Cut pattern rafter and test fit
• Use pattern to cut all rafters
• Install rafters in pairs (keeps ridge straight)
• Nail to ridge beam and to top plate
• Install hurricane ties at bearing points
• Cut birdsmouth notches precisely (affects roof pitch)

Days 6-7: Collar ties and bracing

• Install collar ties per code (upper third of rafter span)
• Install gable end framing
• Brace roof structure before sheathing
• Install any valleys or hip rafters (complex - consider hiring)

Week 5-6: Roof sheathing

• Install 7/16" or 1/2" OSB sheathing
• Start at bottom, work toward ridge
• Stagger seams (edges must land on rafters)
• Nail per code (6" edges, 12" field)
• Leave 1/8" gaps for expansion
• Install H-clips between rafters if spacing over 24"

Final Week: Sheathing and Weather Protection

Exterior wall sheathing:

• Install if not already done during wall assembly
• Start at corners for best stability
• Stagger seams (avoid four corners meeting)
• Leave 1/8" gaps
• Nail per code requirements (structural sheathing needs specific nailing)

House wrap:

• Install Tyvek or equivalent weather barrier
• Overlap seams 6" (upper over lower)
• Tape all seams
• Cut X at windows/doors, fold in and tape
• Extend below sill plate

Code Requirements

Key IRC framing requirements:

• IRC R502.3.1 - Floor joist spans: Prescriptive span tables based on species, grade, spacing, and load. 2x10 #2 Southern Pine = 16'1" at 16" OC for living spaces.

• IRC R602.3 - Stud spacing: Maximum 24" on center, 16" OC typical for easier DIY and better performance

• IRC R602.7 - Headers: Required over all openings in load-bearing walls. Size per span table or engineered.

• IRC R602.10 - Wall bracing: Walls require bracing per prescriptive methods or engineered. Sheathing provides bracing if properly nailed.

• IRC R802.3 - Roof framing spans: Prescriptive rafter span tables. 2x8 rafter can span 14'7" at 16" OC with 4:12 pitch (#2 Southern Pine).

• IRC R802.5.1 - Purlins: If roof spans exceed tables, purlins (horizontal supports) required

• IRC R802.11 - Roof tie-down: Rafters must be tied to walls with approved connectors (hurricane ties minimum)

• IRC R806.1 - Ventilation: Attic requires 1:150 ventilation ratio (1 sq ft vent per 150 sq ft attic)

Subcontractor Considerations

If hiring framing contractors:

What to look for:

• Experienced with residential framing (5+ years)
• Can read plans accurately
• Understands code requirements
• Has worker's comp insurance (verify certificate)
• Provides references from recent projects
• Uses professional tools and safety equipment

Typical pricing:

• Labor only: $4-$8 per sq ft of living space
• Labor and materials: $12-$20 per sq ft
• Roof framing only: $3,000-$6,000 for 2,000 sq ft house
• Complete frame package: $24,000-$40,000 for 2,000 sq ft

Timeline:

• Lead time to book: 2-6 weeks
• Duration once started: 2-4 weeks for complete frame
• Truss installation: 1-2 days
• Roof framing and sheathing: 3-5 days

Red flags:

• No insurance (you're liable for injuries)
• Can't provide recent references
• Unclear contract or scope
• Requires large deposit (25% is standard maximum)
• Doesn't pull permits or schedule inspections

Common Mistakes

1. Not Checking for Square and Level

Why it's a problem: Walls out of plumb create compounding errors. Drywall won't hang right. Doors won't close properly. How to avoid: Check level and plumb constantly. Check diagonals. Fix problems immediately before building on top. Cost if you don't: $3,000-$10,000 fixing walls, reframing, shimming.

2. Wrong Joist Spans

Why it's a problem: Bouncy floors, sagging, structural failure, won't pass inspection. How to avoid: Use IRC span tables for your lumber species and grade. When in doubt, go larger or closer spacing. Cost if you don't: $8,000-$20,000 to reinforce or replace floor framing.

3. Improper Header Sizing

Why it's a problem: Sagging over openings, cracks in drywall, stuck doors, structural issues, fails inspection. How to avoid: Use header span tables. When in doubt, go larger. Never skip headers over openings in load-bearing walls. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$8,000 per opening to retrofit proper headers.

4. Poor Framing of Window/Door Openings

Why it's a problem: Windows don't fit, air leaks, structural weakness, difficult installation. How to avoid: Follow rough opening dimensions exactly (window size + 1/2" for shims). Use king studs, jack studs, headers, and sills properly. Cost if you don't: $500-$2,000 per opening to reframe, window installation delays.

5. No Blocking for Fixtures

Why it's a problem: Can't mount TVs, cabinets, towel bars, grab bars. Must cut open walls later. How to avoid: Add blocking during framing for all known fixture locations. Extra blocking is cheap insurance. Cost if you don't: $100-$500 per location to retrofit later.

6. Ignoring Lumber Quality

Why it's a problem: Bowed, twisted, or wet lumber creates wavy walls, squeaky floors, drywall cracks. How to avoid: Inspect lumber delivery. Reject bad pieces. Crown joists up. Straighten walls during installation. Cost if you don't: $2,000-$8,000 fixing wavy walls, squeaky floors.

7. Inadequate Bracing During Construction

Why it's a problem: Walls fall, roof collapses, serious injuries, expensive damage. How to avoid: Brace everything until permanently braced. Use diagonal braces on walls. Don't remove bracing until sheathing is on. Cost if you don't: $5,000-$50,000 in damage, potential serious injuries.

8. Not Following Truss Engineering

Why it's a problem: Trusses fail, roof collapses, voids warranty, fails inspection. How to avoid: Follow truss placement diagram exactly. Don't cut or modify trusses. Brace per manufacturer requirements. Cost if you don't: $10,000-$30,000 truss replacement, liability for injuries.

9. Skipping Sheathing Nailing Requirements

Why it's a problem: Walls lack structural bracing, fail inspection, won't resist wind/seismic loads. How to avoid: Follow nailing schedule (typically 6" on edges, 12" in field). Use correct nail size. Cost if you don't: Fails inspection, must remove siding to add proper nailing.

10. Not Protecting from Weather

Why it's a problem: Lumber swells, mold grows, structural damage, waste of money. How to avoid: Get roof on ASAP after walls are up (within 2 weeks). Tarp materials. Work fast once started. Cost if you don't: $3,000-$15,000 replacing damaged lumber, mold remediation.

Quality Checkpoints

Before framing inspection, verify:

• [ ] All walls are plumb (check with 6-foot level)
• [ ] All walls are straight (string line along top plates)
• [ ] Floor is level (±1/4" in 20 feet acceptable)
• [ ] All corners are square (check diagonals)
• [ ] Headers properly sized for all openings
• [ ] All rough openings match window/door schedule
• [ ] King studs, jack studs, cripples at all openings
• [ ] Floor joists meet span requirements
• [ ] Floor joists crowned up
• [ ] Subfloor glued and screwed properly
• [ ] Double top plates overlap at corners/intersections
• [ ] Wall blocking for tubs, showers, fixtures installed
• [ ] Roof pitch is correct (verify at multiple locations)
• [ ] Hurricane ties at all rafter/joist connections
• [ ] Collar ties or rafter ties installed per code
• [ ] Roof sheathing properly nailed
• [ ] Gable end vents installed
• [ ] House wrap installed and taped
• [ ] No obvious defects (large knots in structural members, splits, damage)

Budget Breakdown

Example for 2,000 sq ft home, two-story:

Timeline Tips

Best season: Late spring through fall. Lumber stays drier, better working conditions.

Weather considerations:

• Protect lumber from rain (tarps or build quickly)
• Don't frame in high winds (dangerous and difficult)
• Plan for 2-4 weather delay days
• Winter framing takes 30-50% longer

Scheduling with other trades:

• Order windows before framing starts (8-12 week lead time)
• Line up roofing crew to start 1 week after framing complete
• Schedule framing inspection for end of roof sheathing
• Don't schedule rough-in trades until house is weathertight

Critical path:

• Getting roof on quickly (protects investment from weather)
• Framing inspection (required before covering with insulation)
• Window delivery (long lead time)

What Comes Next

After completing framing:

1. Roofing installation - Priority to protect structure from weather
2. Windows and doors - Make house weathertight
3. Framing inspection - Required before rough-ins
4. Rough-in trades - Plumbing, electrical, HVAC

Typical gap between phases: Roof should start within 1 week of framing complete

Link to: Roofing Phase

Related Resources

• Framing Inspection Guide
• Lumber Takeoff Calculator
• Joist Span Tables Guide

Need Framing Help?

Framing is DIY-able but complex. If you're unsure about any structural elements, a consultation can help you avoid expensive mistakes.