Plumbing Rough-In: Complete Guide
Overview
- Typical Duration: 1-2 weeks
- DIY Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ (4/5)
- Typical Cost: $8,000-$15,000 (2,000 sq ft house)
- When to Hire: Most owner-builders hire this out or get help
- Required Inspection: Yes - must pass before covering walls
Plumbing rough-in installs all water supply and drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipes before walls are closed. This is one of the most code-intensive phases, requiring knowledge of proper sizing, slopes, and venting requirements.
I've seen many owner-builders successfully DIY their plumbing rough-in, but it requires studying code requirements and planning carefully. Mistakes here mean cutting open walls later - expensive and frustrating.
When This Phase Happens
Plumbing rough-in happens after house is weathertight.
Must be complete first:
- Roof complete
- Windows and doors installed
- House is weathertight
- Under-slab plumbing complete (if slab foundation)
Can happen in parallel:
- Electrical rough-in
- HVAC rough-in
- All three rough-in trades can work simultaneously
What comes after:
- Rough-in inspection (all three trades)
- Insulation
- Drywall
Should You DIY This Phase?
DIY If:
- Comfortable with PEX or CPVC (easier than copper)
- Can learn code requirements (IRC P2900 series)
- Have access to code-required tools (pressure tester, etc.)
- Simple layout with straightforward runs
- Have time to study and plan carefully
- Local code allows owner-builder plumbing
Hire Out If:
- Complex multi-story plumbing
- Copper piping required (harder to work with)
- Uncomfortable with code requirements
- Want liability protection
- Need speed (pros do in 3-5 days vs 1-2 weeks DIY)
My recommendation: Hire a plumber for planning and inspection prep, DIY the installation under guidance. This ensures code compliance while saving 40-60% of labor costs.
Many codes require licensed plumber for testing and inspection, even if you do the work. Verify local requirements before starting.
Materials Needed
Water Supply System (PEX example - 2,000 sq ft home)
| Item | Quantity | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3/4" PEX main lines | 200 LF | $200-$300 | Hot and cold mains |
| 1/2" PEX branch lines | 500 LF | $250-$400 | To fixtures |
| PEX fittings | 100-150 | $200-$400 | Elbows, tees, couplings |
| PEX crimping tool | 1 | $80-$200 | Buy or rent |
| Crimp rings | 200 | $40-$80 | Copper or stainless |
| Pipe hangers | 100 | $50-$100 | Every 32" required |
| Valves (shut-off) | 25-30 | $150-$300 | Each fixture plus zones |
| Water heater connections | 1 kit | $80-$150 | Flex lines or copper |
Drain-Waste-Vent (DWV) System
| Item | Quantity | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3" or 4" main drain | 80 LF | $160-$400 | To sewer/septic |
| 3" vent stack | 60 LF | $120-$240 | Through roof |
| 2" drain lines | 150 LF | $150-$300 | Sinks, laundry |
| 1.5" drain lines | 100 LF | $80-$180 | Lavatory drains |
| DWV fittings | 60-80 | $180-$350 | Wyes, 90s, combos |
| P-traps | 8-12 | $80-$180 | Each fixture |
| ABS cement | 3 cans | $30-$60 | Joining ABS pipe |
| Toilet flanges | 2-4 | $60-$120 | Closet flanges |
Tools Required
Essential:
- PEX crimping tool or expansion tool
- Tubing cutter (for PEX and CPVC)
- Hacksaw or reciprocating saw
- Drill with hole saw kit (1/2" to 2")
- Tape measure
- Level (torpedo and 4-foot)
- Marker and pencil
Nice to have:
- Inspection camera (see inside walls)
- Pressure test pump (required for inspection)
- Drain test equipment
- Pipe threading equipment (if using threaded pipe)
Code-required:
- Pressure test gauge (test to 50+ PSI)
- Smoke or peppermint test for DWV
Step-by-Step Process
Days 1-2: Planning and Layout
Review plans and code
- Study fixture locations on plans
- Calculate fixture units (determines drain sizing)
- Plan vent routing (every fixture needs venting)
- Identify main stack location (straightest path to roof)
- Plan water supply routing (minimize long runs)
- Mark all penetrations on framing
The biggest mistake beginners make is inadequate venting. Every fixture must be properly vented per code. Study IRC P3100 before starting.
Fixture unit calculations (determines pipe sizing):
- Toilet: 3 fixture units
- Shower: 2 fixture units
- Lavatory: 1 fixture unit
- Kitchen sink: 2 fixture units
- Dishwasher: 2 fixture units
- Clothes washer: 3 fixture units
Pipe sizing based on fixture units:
- 1.5" drain: up to 2 fixture units (lavatory)
- 2" drain: up to 6 fixture units (sinks, showers)
- 3" drain: up to 20 fixture units (toilets, multiple fixtures)
- 4" main drain: building drain (preferred for main)
Days 3-5: DWV Rough-In (Do This First!)
Always rough-in DWV before water supply. DWV pipes are larger and less flexible in routing.
Main drain installation:
- Install cleanouts at base of stacks and every 100 feet
- Slope main drain 1/4" per foot minimum toward sewer/septic
- Support every 4 feet with proper hangers
- Keep drain lines straight (no sags or bellies)
- Test slope with level before cementing
Toilet drain installation:
- Position flange at correct height (finished floor level)
- Connect 3" or 4" drain to toilet flange
- Vent within 6 feet of fixture (closer is better)
- Secure flange to floor framing
Vent stack installation:
- Run 3" main stack from main drain through roof
- Keep stack as straight as possible (no more than 45° offsets)
- Extend 12" above roof penetration
- Flash at roof penetration (critical!)
- Connect branch vents to main stack
Vent requirements (critical for passing inspection):
- Main vent stack: 3" minimum
- Branch vents: 1.5" minimum
- Wet venting allowed in some configurations (check code)
- All fixtures must be vented within maximum distance:
- Toilet: 6 feet from vent
- Sink/lav: 5 feet from vent
- Shower: 5 feet from vent
Improper venting causes slow drains, gurgling, and sewer gas entry. This is the #1 plumbing rough-in failure point in inspections.
Shower/tub drain:
- Install drain at correct depth (varies by fixture - check specs)
- P-trap should be accessible for service
- Vent within 5 feet of trap
- Test drain before installation (fill and check for leaks)
Days 6-8: Water Supply Rough-In
Main supply planning:
- 3/4" main from water heater to distribution point
- Branch to 1/2" for individual fixtures
- Keep hot and cold parallel (easier for fixture installation)
- Maintain proper spacing (6" between hot and cold)
PEX installation (easiest for DIY):
- Run 3/4" trunk lines along main routes
- Branch 1/2" lines to each fixture
- Use proper fittings (crimp or expansion - not both!)
- Support every 32" with plastic hangers
- Protect from freezing in exterior walls
- Leave loops at fixtures for flexibility during finish
Installation tips:
- Use red PEX for hot, blue for cold (not required but helpful)
- Label lines at panel for future reference
- Install shut-off valves for each fixture
- Install zone shut-offs for easier maintenance
- Keep lines away from heat sources (recessed lights, exhaust)
- Protect pipes where passing through framing (nail plates required within 1-1/4" of edge)
Water heater connection:
- 3/4" supply and return lines
- Install expansion tank on cold side
- Install shut-off valves for service
- Install drain valve at lowest point
- Follow manufacturer spacing requirements
Days 9-10: Testing and Inspection Prep
Pressure test (required):
- Cap all outlets with test caps
- Connect pressure test pump to system
- Pressurize to 50 PSI (or code requirement - often 80 PSI)
- Let sit for 30 minutes to 2 hours
- Pressure should not drop (small drop OK, verify no leaks)
- Identify and fix any leaks
- Re-test until system holds pressure
DWV test (varies by jurisdiction):
- Some require water test (fill system, check for leaks)
- Some require smoke test (smoke reveals leaks)
- Some allow peppermint test (smell reveals leaks)
- Most common: water test of drain lines
- Fill lines, check for leaks at all joints
Test early and often. Finding leaks before walls close is easy. Finding them after drywall costs $500-$2,000 per leak to repair.
Inspection preparation:
- All lines properly supported
- All penetrations have nail plates
- Pressure test complete and holding
- DWV test complete
- No kinked or damaged lines
- Proper slopes on drains verified
- All vents properly routed and sized
- All cleanouts accessible
Code Requirements
Key IRC plumbing requirements:
-
IRC P2603 - Water supply: 3/4" minimum service, sized per fixture units
-
IRC P2904 - Slope of horizontal drainage: 1/4" per foot for pipes under 3", 1/8" per foot for 3" and larger
-
IRC P3104 - Vent required: Every fixture requires venting within prescribed distances
-
IRC P3103 - Vent size: Based on fixture units and developed length
-
IRC P2503.5 - Support: Horizontal piping every 6 feet for copper/CPVC, every 32" for PEX, every 4 feet for DWV
-
IRC P2601 - Pressure: System must test to 50 PSI minimum for 15 minutes with no loss
-
IRC P2503.6 - Nail plates: Required where pipes pass within 1-1/4" of framing edge
Subcontractor Considerations
If hiring plumbers:
Typical pricing:
- Complete rough-in: $4,000-$8,000 for 2,000 sq ft home
- Hourly rate: $75-$125 per hour
- Per fixture: $300-$600 per fixture rough-in
Timeline: 3-7 days for typical house
What to look for:
- Licensed plumber (required in most jurisdictions)
- Experience with residential new construction
- Familiar with local code requirements
- Will handle inspection
- Provides warranty on work
- Carries liability and workers comp insurance
Red flags:
- Not licensed (you're liable for code violations)
- Won't pull permit or handle inspection
- Can't explain vent requirements
- Pressure to skip testing
Common Mistakes
1. Inadequate Venting
Why it's a problem: Slow drains, gurgling, sewer gas, fails inspection. #1 plumbing rough-in failure. How to avoid: Study IRC P3100 venting requirements. Every fixture must be properly vented. Cost if you don't: $1,000-$5,000 to cut walls open and add vents.
2. Wrong Drain Slope
Why it's a problem: Standing water, slow drains, clogs, fails inspection. How to avoid: Maintain 1/4" per foot slope. Check with level. No sags or bellies. Cost if you don't: $500-$2,000 per drain to re-pipe.
3. Improper Pipe Support
Why it's a problem: Sagging lines, noise, leaks, fails inspection. How to avoid: Support every 32" for PEX, every 4 feet for DWV. Use proper hangers. Cost if you don't: Failed inspection, must expose and add supports.
4. Forgetting Cleanouts
Why it's a problem: Can't clear clogs, fails inspection, code violation. How to avoid: Install cleanout at base of each stack and every 100 feet of horizontal drain. Cost if you don't: $300-$800 per cleanout to add later (cut walls/floors).
5. No Pressure Testing
Why it's a problem: Leaks hidden in walls discovered after drywall. Expensive water damage. How to avoid: Pressure test to 50+ PSI for 30+ minutes before inspection. Cost if you don't: $1,000-$5,000 per leak to cut walls, repair, patch, repaint.
6. Wrong Pipe Sizing
Why it's a problem: Insufficient flow, pressure loss, fails inspection. How to avoid: Size pipes per code based on fixture units. When in doubt, go larger. Cost if you don't: Re-piping, failed inspection.
7. Forgetting Nail Plates
Why it's a problem: Drywall screws puncture pipes, leaks behind walls. How to avoid: Install 1/16" nail plates wherever pipes pass within 1-1/4" of framing edge. Cost if you don't: Leaks, water damage, emergency repairs.
8. Improper Toilet Flange Height
Why it's a problem: Toilet rocks, leaks at base, wax ring fails. How to avoid: Set flange at finished floor height (not subfloor). Account for tile or other flooring. Cost if you don't: $300-$600 to reset toilet, repair subfloor damage.
9. Mixing Pipe Types Incorrectly
Why it's a problem: Incompatible materials, leaks, corrosion, code violations. How to avoid: Use proper transition fittings between different materials (PEX to copper, etc.). Cost if you don't: Leaks, corrosion, failed joints.
10. No Expansion Tanks
Why it's a problem: Water hammer, damage to fixtures, shortened appliance life, code violation in many areas. How to avoid: Install expansion tank on cold water side near water heater. Cost if you don't: Fixture damage, noisy pipes, code violation.
Quality Checkpoints
Before rough-in inspection, verify:
- [ ] All fixtures have proper drain size (1.5", 2", or 3")
- [ ] All drains slope 1/4" per foot minimum
- [ ] All fixtures properly vented within code distances
- [ ] Main vent stack 3" minimum through roof
- [ ] Cleanouts installed at base of stacks
- [ ] Toilet flanges at finished floor height
- [ ] All DWV joints properly glued
- [ ] All supply lines properly crimped/connected
- [ ] Proper pipe support (every 32" PEX, 4' DWV)
- [ ] Nail plates installed where required
- [ ] Water supply pressure test passed (50+ PSI, 30+ min)
- [ ] DWV test complete (water, smoke, or peppermint)
- [ ] No kinked or damaged lines
- [ ] All lines labeled (hot/cold)
- [ ] Shut-off valves installed appropriately
- [ ] No leaks detected
Budget Breakdown
Example for 2,000 sq ft home, 2.5 baths:
| Item | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| **Materials** | ||
| PEX supply piping | $450-$700 | Hot and cold, all sizes |
| PEX fittings | $200-$400 | Crimps, fittings, valves |
| DWV pipe (ABS/PVC) | $550-$1,090 | All drains and vents |
| DWV fittings | $180-$350 | All connections |
| Toilet flanges | $60-$120 | 3 fixtures |
| P-traps | $80-$180 | All fixtures |
| Support hardware | $150-$250 | Hangers, straps, nail plates |
| Testing equipment | $80-$150 | Pressure gauge, caps |
| Water heater kit | $80-$150 | Connections, expansion tank |
| **Labor (if hiring)** | $4,500-$7,500 | Complete rough-in |
| **Tools (if buying)** | $200-$400 | PEX crimper, cutters |
| **Total (DIY)** | **$2,030-$3,790** | Materials and tools |
| **Total (Hired)** | **$6,030-$10,790** | Materials and labor |
Hiring a plumber for rough-in costs $4,500-$7,500 but includes expertise, speed, and code compliance. Many owner-builders hire this to ensure proper installation.
Timeline Tips
Best season: Any time (interior work)
Scheduling:
- Coordinate with electrical and HVAC (all can work simultaneously)
- Schedule inspection for all three trades together
- Allow 1-2 weeks before inspection (time to test and fix issues)
What Comes Next
After plumbing rough-in inspection passes:
- Complete all rough-in trades (electrical, HVAC)
- Combined rough-in inspection
- Insulation installation
- Drywall installation
Link to: Electrical Rough-In Phase
Related Resources
Need Plumbing Help?
Plumbing rough-in is complex with strict code requirements. If you're unsure about venting or sizing, a consultation can save you from failed inspections.