Rough-In Inspections: Pass on First Try
Rough-in inspections cover all the systems that go inside your walls before they're covered. This is typically three separate inspections: electrical, plumbing, and HVAC.
Get these right and you'll never have to cut open finished walls. Fail them and you're looking at days of delays, hundreds in re-inspection fees, and the stress of torn-apart work.
Rough-in is three inspections — electrical, plumbing, HVAC — run after framing passes but before any insulation or drywall. Call it too early or too late and you fail automatically. Schedule electrical first, plumbing second, HVAC last. The single most expensive item is the shower pan flood test: do the full 24-hour test before tiling. Every week of delay costs $1,000-$2,500+, so one hour of prep pays for itself.
When to Schedule
Timing: After rough-in work is complete but BEFORE insulation or wall covering
You must follow this exact sequence. Skip a step and you'll fail automatically:
- Framing inspection passed
- All electrical, plumbing, and HVAC rough-in complete
- No insulation installed yet
- No drywall installed
Calling rough-in inspection after installing insulation or drywall = automatic failure.
Notice required: 24-48 hours for each inspection
Can they be combined? Many jurisdictions allow you to schedule "rough-in" as one visit covering all three trades. Ask your building department. This can save days and reduces scheduling headaches.
Schedule electrical first. It's usually the quickest to fix if there are issues.
Then plumbing. Then HVAC last.
If you fail HVAC and need to adjust ductwork, it won't affect the other trades. But if you fail electrical first, fixing wire routes might disrupt plumbing or ductwork.
Weather: These are all interior inspections, so weather rarely delays them.
What the Electrical Inspector Checks
Three things: that every circuit is the right size and protected (AFCI/GFCI), that wiring is supported and shielded from nails, and that receptacles, lighting, and life-safety devices land where code requires. Get these right before drywall and you never cut open a finished wall.
Service and Panel
| Component | What the inspector checks |
|---|---|
| Service size | Adequate for calculated load (typically 200 amp for modern homes); proper service conductor size; correct meter base installation; service grounded properly |
| Main panel | Proper working space (30" wide, 36" deep, 6'6" high); labeled clearly; correct breaker types; proper wire connections; no double-tapping (two wires under one breaker) |
| Grounding | Grounding electrode system installed (ground rods, typically two 8' rods); grounding conductor proper size; bonding of water and gas lines; bonding of service equipment |
Branch Circuits
| Circuit type | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| AFCI protection | NEC 210.12 | Required for virtually all 15/20 amp circuits in living areas (bedrooms, living rooms, hallways, closets, etc.); AFCI breakers installed, not just labeled |
| GFCI protection | NEC 210.8 | Bathrooms (all receptacles); kitchens (countertop receptacles); garages; unfinished basements; crawl spaces; outdoors; within 6' of sinks; laundry areas |
| Kitchen circuits | — | Minimum two 20-amp small appliance circuits; separate circuit for refrigerator (typical, not always code); dedicated circuit for dishwasher; GFCI protection for countertop receptacles |
| Bathroom circuits | — | 20-amp circuit required; GFCI protection required; can serve multiple bathrooms or a single bathroom depending on layout |
Wiring Methods
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Cable type and size | — | Correct wire gauge for breaker size (14 AWG for 15A, 12 AWG for 20A, etc.); proper cable type for location (NM-B for dry, UF for underground, etc.); no mixing wire sizes on same circuit |
| Cable protection | NEC 334.15 | Protected from physical damage; minimum 1-1/4" from edge of stud where nails/screws might penetrate; metal plates installed where less than 1-1/4" from edge; proper support every 4.5' and within 12" of boxes |
| Proper routing | — | No sharp bends; proper radius on turns; not crushed or damaged; stapled within 12" of boxes and every 4.5' |
| Boxes | NEC 314.20 | Proper size for number of wires (box fill calculation); flush with finished wall surface (or proper extension); properly secured to framing; cable secured to box with proper connector |
Receptacle Placement
| Location | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| General rooms | NEC 210.52 | Maximum 12' between receptacles; no point along wall more than 6' from a receptacle; receptacles required for any wall 2' or longer |
| Kitchen | NEC 210.52(C) | Countertop receptacles every 4' (or within 2' of any point on countertop); cannot be installed face-up in countertop unless a special listed type. Peninsulas and islands: required to have receptacles under the 2020 NEC, but optional under the 2023 NEC (which instead may only require a provision — roughed-in wiring — for a future outlet). Check which NEC edition your jurisdiction enforces. |
| Bathrooms | NEC 210.52(D) | At least one receptacle within 3' of outside edge of each basin; must be on 20-amp bathroom circuit; GFCI protected |
| Garage | NEC 210.52(G) | At least one receptacle; GFCI protected |
| Outdoor | NEC 210.52(E) | Front and back of dwelling; grade-level access required; GFCI protected; weatherproof covers (in-use type if outlet used while covered) |
Lighting and Switching
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Required lighting outlets | NEC 210.70 | Every habitable room; bathrooms; hallways; stairways (illumination at each level); attached garages; outdoor entries |
| Switching | — | Wall switch required for lighting in habitable rooms; switch at each floor level for stairs; three-way switches for stairs with 6+ risers; switch height typically 48" (accessibility varies by jurisdiction) |
Special Requirements
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Smoke and CO detectors | IRC R314, R315 | Hard-wired with battery backup; interconnected (when one sounds, all sound); locations: each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, each level; CO detectors outside sleeping areas and each level |
| Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters | — | Required on most 15/20 amp circuits; check for proper AFCI breakers, not just standard breakers |
| Dedicated circuits | — | Furnace/HVAC equipment; appliances per manufacturer specs; sump pump (recommended); garage door openers (recommended) |
What the Plumbing Inspector Checks
Supply lines sized and protected, drains sloped correctly with no bellies, every fixture properly vented, and the shower pan watertight. The two failures that hurt most — bad slope and bad venting — are buried in walls, so the inspector catches them now or you pay thousands later.
Water Supply
| Item | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Pipe sizing | Adequate size for fixture count and distance; main service line adequate (typically 3/4" or 1" for house); branch lines sized per code (IRC Table P2903.7) |
| Pipe materials | Approved type for application (copper, PEX, CPVC, etc.); proper fittings for pipe type; no mixing incompatible materials without proper transition fittings |
| Water hammer arrestors | Installed at quick-closing valves (washing machine, dishwasher); proper size for application |
| Support and protection | Pipes properly supported per code intervals; protection through framing (1-1/2" from edge or steel plates); pipe sleeves through concrete; separation from electrical when parallel |
| Pipe insulation | Required in unconditioned spaces; may be required on hot water lines for energy code |
Drain, Waste, and Vent (DWV)
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Drain pipe sizing | IRC Table P3004.1 | Adequate for fixture units served; minimum 3" for toilet drains; minimum 2" for shower drains; minimum 1-1/2" for lavatory sinks |
| Slope | IRC P3005.3 | Minimum 1/4" per foot for pipes under 3"; minimum 1/8" per foot for pipes 3" and larger; no sags or bellies (low spots that trap water); maximum slope 3" per foot (to prevent liquid outrunning solids) |
| Venting | IRC P3104-P3111 | Every fixture properly vented; vent pipe sized adequately (typically 1-1/2" minimum); horizontal vents sloped up toward vent terminal; vent termination minimum 3' above roof, 10' from windows/doors |
| Wet venting (if used) | — | Only where code allows; proper sizing and configuration; typically used for bathroom groups |
| Cleanouts | — | Required at changes in direction greater than 45 degrees (horizontal); required at base of each vertical stack; accessible locations |
| DWV support | — | Horizontal pipes supported every 4' (ABS/PVC); vertical pipes supported every floor level |
Fixture Rough-In
| Fixture | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Toilet | Flange properly set (correct height for finished floor); flange secured to floor structure; drain size 3" minimum; vent within proper distance; water supply stubout at correct height and location |
| Shower/Tub | Drain properly located and sized; P-trap accessible; proper slope to drain; vent adequate; valve rough-in correct height; pressure balancing or thermostatic valve installed (anti-scald) |
| Sinks | Supply lines correct height; drain rough-in correct location; P-trap location accessible; proper venting |
| Dishwasher/disposal | Air gap or high loop required (dishwasher); proper drain connection; water supply with shutoff; electrical connection rough-in |
Water Heater
| Item | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Location | Drain pan required in some locations (above living space, indoors); pan drain piped to safe location; proper clearances maintained; combustion air if fuel-fired |
| Connections planned | Cold water supply; hot water outlet; gas line if applicable; electric if applicable; TPR (temperature/pressure relief) valve discharge pipe |
Special Items
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Shower pan test | IRC P2709 | Flood test required before tiling; pan filled to dam height (2" above curb); hold 24 hours minimum; no water loss acceptable; test BEFORE tiling or inspector won't pass |
| Gas piping (if applicable) | — | Proper pipe sizing for BTU load; correct material (black iron, CSST, etc.); pressure test required (typically 15 psi for 15 minutes); proper support and protection; bonding of CSST if used |
The pan flood test (IRC P2709) is the one plumbing item with no workaround: fill to dam height (2" above curb), hold 24 hours minimum, zero water loss. Test BEFORE tiling — a failed test costs roughly ten times more to fix once tile is down.
What the HVAC Inspector Checks
Equipment placed with proper clearances and access, ductwork sealed and insulated, combustion air and venting correct on fuel-fired equipment, and every exhaust fan (bath, kitchen, dryer) routed to the exterior. Sealing and exhaust routing are where most owner-builders trip up.
Equipment Placement
| Equipment | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Furnace/air handler | Proper clearances to combustibles; adequate service access (30" working space); proper support if in attic; condensate drain provisions; return air provisions |
| Air conditioning condenser | Proper clearances from structure; level pad or mounting; service access; electrical disconnect within sight |
| Water heater (sometimes under HVAC inspection) | Proper clearances; drain pan if required; TPR valve and discharge pipe; combustion air if gas |
Ductwork
| Item | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Sizing | — | Supply ducts sized per Manual D (ACCA standards); return ducts adequate size; trunk lines properly sized; ducts match equipment capacity |
| Materials and construction | — | Proper duct material for application; joints sealed (mastic or foil tape, not cloth duct tape); properly supported (every 4' for flex duct, 10' for metal); no crushing or compression of flex duct |
| Insulation | IRC N1103.3.3 | Required R-value in unconditioned spaces (typically R-8); vapor barrier facing outward; sealed at joints |
| Return air | — | Adequate size for system; sealed to prevent outside air infiltration; no return air from garage or hazardous locations |
| Supply registers | — | Proper locations for heating/cooling; sized for CFM requirements; boot boxes properly installed and sealed |
Combustion and Ventilation
| Item | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Combustion air (if fuel-fired equipment) | Adequate combustion air provided; two openings if using inside air; proper sizing of openings; one opening within 12" of ceiling, one within 12" of floor |
| Venting (fuel-fired) | Proper vent type for equipment (Type B, direct vent, etc.); adequate size; proper pitch (1/4" per foot toward equipment typically); proper clearances to combustibles; proper termination; no condensation issues |
| Draft hood clearances | Minimum 6" to combustibles |
Exhaust Ventilation
| Exhaust | Code | Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Bathroom exhaust | — | Required in bathrooms without operable windows; minimum 50 CFM (intermittent) or 20 CFM (continuous); vented to exterior (not into attic or soffit); proper duct material (smooth metal or flex) |
| Kitchen exhaust | IRC M1503.1 | Required if no operable windows; minimum 100 CFM for intermittent range hood; vented to exterior; makeup air may be required for high-CFM hoods (>400 CFM) |
| Dryer vent (verify your jurisdiction's adopted edition) | IRC M1502.4.5 | Maximum 35' total developed length (reduced for fittings per Table M1502.4.5.1: typically -2.5' per 45°, -5' per 90°); always follow the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions if they are more restrictive; minimum 4" diameter; metal duct required (no vinyl or flex); vented to exterior; vent cap installed |
Refrigerant Lines (if applicable)
| Item | Requirements |
|---|---|
| Line set installation | Proper routing; protected from damage; proper insulation; sealed penetrations |
| Condensate drain | Proper pitch (1/4" per foot minimum); P-trap installed on negative pressure systems; drained to safe location; overflow safety provisions |
Before the Inspector Arrives
Walk your work 48 hours before each inspection. Fix issues now, not during the inspection.
Electrical Rough-In
Electrical Rough-In Checklist
Plumbing Rough-In
The shower pan flood test is non-negotiable. If you haven't done a 24-hour flood test with documented results, you will fail.
Do not tile before testing. Once tile is installed, fixing a failed test costs $2,000-$5,000 instead of $200-$500.
Plumbing Rough-In Checklist
HVAC Rough-In
HVAC Rough-In Checklist
General Preparation
General Inspection Preparation
Top 10 Electrical Failures
These are the most common reasons owner-builders fail electrical rough-in. Know them. Fix them before the inspector arrives.
| Failure | Code | How to Fix | Re-Inspect Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| **1. Missing AFCI or GFCI Protection**<br/>Standard breakers used instead of required AFCI or GFCI | NEC 210.12<br/>NEC 210.8 | Replace standard breakers with AFCI/GFCI types | 1-3 days | $150-$500 |
| **2. Improper Box Fill**<br/>Too many wires in electrical box | NEC 314.16 | Install larger box or reduce number of wires | 2-4 days | $200-$600 |
| **3. Wire Size Doesn't Match Breaker**<br/>14 AWG wire on 20 amp breaker | NEC 240.4 | Downgrade breaker to 15A or rewire with 12 AWG | 2-5 days | $50-$800+ |
| **4. Receptacles Too Far Apart**<br/>More than 12' between receptacles | NEC 210.52 | Add additional receptacles | 2-4 days | $200-$500 |
| **5. Missing Protection Plates**<br/>Wires within 1-1/4" of stud edge without steel plates | NEC 334.15(B) | Install steel nail plates over vulnerable wiring | 1-2 days | $50-$150 |
| **6. Improper Grounding/Bonding**<br/>Missing grounding electrode, no metal system bonding | NEC 250 | Install ground rods, bond water and gas lines | 2-4 days | $300-$800 |
| **7. Boxes Not Flush**<br/>Boxes recessed or protruding from finished wall plane | NEC 314.20 | Add box extenders or remount boxes | 2-3 days | $100-$400 |
| **8. Missing Cable Support**<br/>Cables not stapled within 12" of boxes or every 4.5' | NEC 334.30 | Add staples at required intervals | 1-2 days | $100-$300 |
| **9. Improper Kitchen Circuits**<br/>Missing two 20A small appliance circuits or GFCI protection | NEC 210.52(B) | Add required circuits, install GFCI protection | 3-5 days | $400-$1,200 |
| **10. Double-Tapped Breakers**<br/>Two wires on single breaker not rated for double tap | NEC 110.14(A) | Install additional breaker or use rated breaker | 1-2 days | $50-$200 |
This is the single most common electrical failure. Inspectors check this first.
AFCI breakers are required on virtually all 15/20 amp circuits in living areas. GFCI is required in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, outdoors, and within 6' of sinks.
If you installed standard breakers instead, you will fail. Period.
Top 10 Plumbing Failures
Plumbing failures are expensive. Improper venting can cost $1,000-$4,000 to fix after walls are up.
| Failure | Code | How to Fix | Re-Inspect Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| **1. Improper Drain Slope**<br/>Drains don't slope properly or have sags/bellies | IRC P3005.3 | Re-pipe sections with improper slope (min 1/4" per foot) | 3-7 days | $500-$2,000 |
| **2. Improper or Missing Venting**<br/>Fixtures not vented, or vent pipe too small | IRC P3104-P3111 | Install proper venting system | 5-10 days | $1,000-$4,000 |
| **3. Shower Pan Leak**<br/>Pan doesn't pass 24-hour flood test | IRC P2709 | Find and repair leak in pan liner | 3-7 days + 24hr retest | $500-$3,000 |
| **4. Undersized Drain Pipe**<br/>Drain pipe too small for fixture load | IRC Table P3004.1 | Replace with properly sized pipe | 3-7 days | $600-$2,500 |
| **5. Water Pipe Too Close to Stud Edge**<br/>Pipe within 1-1/2" without protection plate | IRC P2603 | Install steel plates over vulnerable pipe | 1-2 days | $50-$200 |
| **6. Missing Cleanouts**<br/>No cleanouts at required locations | IRC P3005.2 | Install cleanouts at base of stacks and direction changes | 2-4 days | $300-$800 |
| **7. Improper Pipe Support**<br/>Pipes not supported at code intervals | IRC Table P2605.1 | Add supports (every 4' horizontal, every floor vertical) | 1-3 days | $200-$500 |
| **8. Missing Water Hammer Arrestors**<br/>No arrestors at quick-closing valves | IRC P2903.5 | Install arrestors at washing machine and dishwasher | 2-4 days | $200-$500 |
| **9. Gas Line Pressure Test Failure**<br/>Gas piping doesn't hold pressure | Various | Find and repair leak, retest (15 psi for 15 min) | 2-5 days | $300-$1,500 |
| **10. Vent Termination Issues**<br/>Vent too close to windows/doors/openings | IRC P3103.7 | Extend or relocate vent (10' from windows, 3' above roof) | 3-5 days | $400-$1,200 |
Failure #3 (shower pan leak) costs $500 to fix before tile, $2,000-$5,000 after tile is installed.
Test procedure: Fill pan to dam height (2" above curb), mark water level, wait 24 hours. ANY water loss = failure.
Document with photos and timestamps. Inspector may require proof of 24-hour test.
Top 5 HVAC Failures
HVAC is often inspected with plumbing. The most common failures involve ductwork sealing and exhaust venting.
| Failure | Code | How to Fix | Re-Inspect Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| **1. Inadequate Combustion Air**<br/>Not enough combustion air for fuel-fired equipment | IRC M1701-M1705 | Add or enlarge combustion air openings | 3-5 days | $400-$1,200 |
| **2. Ductwork Not Sealed**<br/>Duct joints not sealed with mastic or foil tape | IRC N1103.3.3 | Seal all duct joints (not cloth duct tape) | 2-4 days | $300-$800 |
| **3. Insufficient Duct Insulation**<br/>Ducts in unconditioned spaces not insulated | IRC N1103.3.3 | Add insulation to meet R-value (typically R-8) | 2-4 days | $400-$1,200 |
| **4. Exhaust Not Vented to Exterior**<br/>Bath/kitchen exhaust vented to attic or soffit | IRC M1502.3 | Extend vent to proper exterior termination | 3-5 days | $300-$800 |
| **5. Dryer Vent Too Long or Wrong Material**<br/>Exceeds 35' total developed length (less fitting deductions) or uses vinyl flex duct | IRC M1502.4.5<br/>(verify adopted edition) | Shorten run or use rigid metal duct; follow manufacturer instructions if more restrictive | 2-4 days | $200-$600 |
Regular cloth "duct tape" is specifically prohibited by code for sealing ductwork.
Use mastic (goopy paste) or UL 181 foil tape with aluminum backing. These create air-tight seals that hold up over time.
Cloth duct tape is prohibited for this use—it dries out and loses adhesion. Use mastic or UL 181 foil tape instead.
If You Fail
Rough-in failures are common, even for experienced builders. They're usually straightforward to fix.
Most owner-builders experience at least one failure across all three trades (electrical, plumbing, HVAC). It's part of the learning process.
Get Specific Details
When the inspector writes up failures, ask for:
- Code section violated
- Exact location of each failure point
- Proper correction method
- Written documentation of all failures
Take notes. Take photos of what the inspector is pointing out.
Make ALL Corrections
Don't just fix the items the inspector pointed out.
Walk through and fix anything similar throughout the entire house. If inspector caught one missing steel plate, check every wire run. If one drain has improper slope, verify all drains.
Inspectors don't catch everything on first pass. Fix everything in the same category to avoid multiple re-inspections.
Re-Inspection Timeline
Most jurisdictions schedule rough-in re-inspections within 2-4 days after you call.
Some charge re-inspection fees ($50-$150 per trade). Check with your building department.
Multiple Trades Failed?
If you failed electrical and plumbing, fix both before calling for re-inspection.
Some jurisdictions will re-inspect all trades at once. Others require separate calls. Ask when scheduling.
Cost of Delay
Every week rough-in inspections are delayed costs you money:
| Cost Category | Weekly Impact |
|---|---|
| Construction loan interest | $100-$200 |
| Subcontractor delays (insulation, drywall can't start) | $200-$500 |
| Cascade delays (all remaining phases pushed back) | $300-$800 |
| Weather exposure (house open longer) | Risk of damage |
| **Total Weekly Cost** | **$1,000-$2,500+** |
Pass on first try by being thorough. One hour of prep work can save you $1,000+ in delays.
Final Checklist: Ready for Rough-In?
Use this comprehensive checklist to verify you're ready before scheduling inspections.
Electrical Inspection Ready
Plumbing Inspection Ready
HVAC Inspection Ready
General Inspection Preparation
Pro Tips
Before calling the inspector:
- Test all GFCI outlets (push test button, should trip)
- Verify all circuits connected and properly labeled at panel
- Check duct sealing throughout (run your hand along joints)
- Verify shower pan passed full 24-hour test with documentation
Catch your own failures before the inspector does.
Take photos of:
- All pipe and wire routing (before insulation covers)
- All duct sealing and insulation
- Shower pan flood test (before, during with water level marked, and after)
- All exhaust vent terminations
- Any unusual framing conditions
If inspector questions something 6 months later, you have proof. Photos also help you if you need to find a wire or pipe later.
Optimal Inspection Scheduling Order
If doing separate inspections rather than combined rough-in:
1. Electrical
2. Plumbing
3. HVAC Last
Required Test Documentation
Have these test results documented and ready to show inspector:
- Shower pan: 24-hour flood test with before/after photos and timestamps
- Gas piping: Pressure test results (typically 15 psi for 15 minutes minimum)
- DWV systems: Water test if required in your jurisdiction (ask building department)
No documentation = may have to retest with inspector present (delays and additional fees).
Use painter's tape or spray paint to mark:
- GFCI circuits at panel (so inspector can easily verify)
- AFCI circuits at panel
- Vent termination locations
- Cleanout locations
This shows attention to detail and makes inspector's job easier. Happy inspector = thorough but fair inspection.
Regional Variations
Code requirements vary by climate and seismic zone. Know your area's special requirements.
| Climate/Zone | Additional Requirements |
|---|---|
| **Cold Climates**<br/>(Northern states, high elevation) | • Pipe insulation in exterior walls<br/>• Heat tape in vulnerable locations<br/>• Frost-proof hose bibs required<br/>• Enhanced attic insulation on ductwork |
| **Hot/Humid Climates**<br/>(Southeast, Gulf Coast) | • Refrigerant line insulation (condensation prevention)<br/>• Condensate drain provisions (primary + secondary)<br/>• Dehumidification provisions<br/>• Mold-resistant materials in moisture-prone areas |
| **High Wind/Seismic Zones**<br/>(Coastal, earthquake zones) | • Hurricane straps/clips on roof framing<br/>• Gas line flexible connections<br/>• Seismic bracing for water heater<br/>• Enhanced foundation anchor bolts |
Final Thoughts
Rough-in inspections are critical checkpoints in your build. They verify that hidden systems are installed correctly before they're covered up. Take them seriously, prepare thoroughly, and don't hesitate to ask questions.
A good relationship with your inspector makes the entire process smoother. They're there to ensure your house is safe and code-compliant - that benefits everyone.
Next steps: After passing rough-in inspections, you'll move on to insulation and drywall. Check out our Insulation Inspection Guide for what comes next